Knitting a gauge swatch is one of the most important steps before starting a knitting project. It’s also one of the most dreaded steps next to weaving in ends. But there’s no need to feel this way. In this Guide to Knitting Gauge, I’ll explain what a swatch is, why it’s important to swatch, and discuss knitting gauge.
What is a Swatch?
I hear knitters frequently ask, what does it mean to swatch?
In simplest terms, a knitting gauge swatch is a small sample of what your end product will look like. It is usually a knitted square made with the needles, yarn, and pattern you intend to use for your project.
Why Swatch?
If you’re planning to knit something that needs to be a particular size, be prepared to knit a swatch beforehand.
I know, I know...I can just hear the collective groan. But if you’re willing to invest the time to knit a sweater or other fitted piece, wouldn’t it be nice if it actually fit?
I mean, let’s face it. You’ve invested time and money on your craft. Why half-ass your way through a knitting pattern without knitting a gauge swatch? There’s really no excuse not to and, in the end, it’ll make you a better knitter. There. I’ve said it.
There are several other reasons why you should swatch. Firstly, the purpose of a knitted swatch is to determine knitting gauge.
To do so, you will need to evaluate the way your knitting needles, project yarn, and your knitting tension mix. The only way to properly evaluate this is to swatch.
Swatching will tell you if:
- your knitting needles are right for the project.
- the yarn you want to use is right for the project.
- you need to learn or need more practice on a certain skill.
- if your knitting tension needs adjustment.
- you need more blocking experience.
- the project or pattern is worth completing at all.
To summarize, it’s important to swatch before you knit to determine if the tools you’re working with are a good collaboration.
What do I mean by this?
Well, not all needles and yarn play nice with each other. And not all yarn materials are universal in size and texture. You want to use the right tools, i.e., yarn and knitting needles, to create a knitted piece that doesn’t end up hidden in the back of the closet.
By knitting a swatch, you will determine if the yarn and tools you’re working with are worth your time and effort or if you need to find alternatives.
All of this is necessary in order to meet knitting gauge.
What is Knitting Gauge?
Knitting gauge is the required number of stitches per inch horizontally, and the number of rows per inch vertically.
Why is this important to know?
It's important to know because these measurements will determine the size of your finished project.
When reading a knitting pattern, the designer will (should!) include the knitting needle brand and size, and the yarn used in the construction of the piece.
How to Read a Knitting Pattern
Understanding Knitting Gauge
Let’s say the knitting pattern uses Cascade 220 yarn in worsted weight. The designer's materials listed for gauge are size 8 (10mm) knitting needles and the swatch is knit in stockinette stitch.
A target gauge should also be included in the pattern. Gauge will be shown like this:
Gauge: 20 sts/28 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
This means that gauge is 20 stitches (width) and 28 rows (height) equaling four inches squared in stockinette stitch.
Your goal is to match the stitch gauge AND the row gauge the designer lists on the knitting pattern.
Based on this information, you would begin by knitting a pattern swatch with the same yarn (or similar worsted weight yarn) and with size 8 knitting needles. This is your starting point.
Yarn Weight Chart
The handy chart below gives you the standard weight system implemented by the Craft Yarn Council. It shows:
- the various yarn gauges or yarn weights in each class;
- the types of yarn in each weight;
- the recommended needle size per weight;
- and the stitches per 4" in a stockinette swatch.
Still have questions about knitting gauge? Don't worry, there's more to come.
Let's recap though.
By now you understand what a swatch is, why it's important to knit one, and have learned about knitting gauge. The next step is to start swatching. So pick a pattern, choose your yarn, and grab your knitting needles!
Need some pattern inspiration? Check out our collections of free scarf patterns, cowl patterns, and baby blankets. Looking for beginner colorwork patterns? You can find mosaic knitting patterns here and an 80s inspired mosaic cowl here.
I really like your website. Full of clear, concise information. Thanks for the lesson on gauge. I have been stressing about it for weeks now. Cheers. I am bookmarking this site.
Thank you so much! I'm so glad you found it helpful.
Yes, gauge is one of those things in knitting that can be stressful at first but, with practice, it'll become second nature. Best of luck!
I need to get a substitute yarn for a garter stitch project. The gauge is given over garter stitch in the pattern. Is it possible to convert this to a stocking stitch gauge to allow me to choose a suitable yarn substitute? Yarns give their gauge information in stocking stitch, so I’m struggling.
Great question! It sounds like: 1. you already have a pattern in mind but they list gauge in garter stitch; and 2. you want to find a yarn substitute for the yarn listed/used in the pattern.
Here's what I would do. There's a great online site called Yarnsub.com. I'd search there and see what yarn substitution recommendations they have for the yarn used in the pattern. Assuming the yarn is a common or popular one, you're likely to find a workable result there. Then, I'd knit a gauge swatch in garter stitch with your new yarn. As there's no true method to convert stockinette gauge to garter stitch gauge without knitting a gauge swatch to get your estimates, this is your best option. But you can always make your yarn work for you so long as you swatch and adjust needle size accordingly.
I hope this helps! Best of luck! Christina
My swatch works out for the row count but is 1/2” short for the stitch count. I am afraid I do not understand how to make adjustments. I am using the yarn and needle size recommended. I am not sure what I need to do.
I applaud your swatching efforts! Good job! To make adjustments, there are a couple of options to try. 1) You could try knitting a new swatch with a different needle material in the same size. 2) Depending on how crucial length is to this project, you could knit until you've reached the called-for length. 3) You could try an alternate yarn and/or pattern. This last option is more extreme, of course, but sometimes certain fibers and materials just don't play nice with each other. I sincerely hope this helps! Best of luck! ~Christina
Hi!
This is a helpful guide, but I am confused about one thing. You say towards the beginning of this guide that the gauge is the number of stitches and rows required *per inch*, but later you write,
“20 sts/28 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch”
Following the first statement, I would need 80 stitches for width and 112 rows for height, but then you explain that
“This means that gauge is 20 stitches (width) and 28 rows (height) equaling four inches squared in stockinette stitch.”
Am I missing something? Because I just cast on 16 stitches for this blanket I’m knitting, but... that does not come to 4”. Thank you!
I’m glad you found the guide helpful though a little confusing. Sorry about that. The confusion sounds like it’s coming from the “per inch” statement.
Based on the numbers you gave it sounds like you might be trying to knit a blanket that’s 16 inches square?
20 stitches X 4 inches = 80 sts (16” wide)
28 stitches X 4 inches = 112 sts (16” tall)
That formula was just an example, but it’s not a guarantee. As I mentioned in the post, gauge can vary based on needle size, yarn, and how you knit. Be sure to check your ball band for recommendations, too.
I’m not sure where the 16 sts comes in but, you’re right, that would roughly give you 3” square blanket.
If you want to knit a larger blanket, you’ll have to factor in stitches based on the formula. If using a different stitch pattern and/or borders, just remember to swatch first to account for stitch behavior.
I hope this helps! Let me know if you have additional questions.
Hello! If I have a pattern that calls for chunky wool (weight 5) that has a gauge of 2.5 stitches per inch on size 10 needles, but I am using a lighter acrylic yarn that has a gauge of 16 stitches per 4 inches, I need to figure out how to convert. The chunky wool pattern calls for casting on 25 stitches (for 10 inches). Can I cast on 40 stitches of my lighter yard (16 for 4 inches plus 16 for 4 inches plus 8 for 2 inches)? Also, the gauges all seem to be given in stockinette stitch but this hat is garter stitch. Do I have to worry about converting the gauge or since the gauges are standard in stockinette, is it fine to just do the calculation to get to 10 inches of stitches? Thank you! Judy
Hi! Thanks for the comment. So, a couple of things going on here. First, you WILL need to swatch in garter stitch since that's what the pattern swatch called for. Garter stitch is wider and denser (read: yarn hog) than stockinette so you'll need to start there. You could also try going up a needle size with the lighter yarn to see if you can meet gauge without having to convert everything. If that doesn't work, swatching in garter stitch should give you a better feel for how much you'll need to convert. I hope this helps!
Hello,
I am planning on making a blanket using a garter ribbing stitch. I would like the blanket to have a chunkier knit but still be able to see the pattern. Do you have any suggestions for the yarn weight and/or needle size?
Thank you!
Hi there! I've found that rib stitch patterns show up the best, which looks great on blankets. I wouldn't worry about losing the ribs in a chunky blanket, unless you're planning to use a wildly variegated yarn. My only recommendation is to knit with something you're comfortable with. Personally, I'd say go with something in a chunky/bulky (5). This is because I find anything larger too heavy, and the needles too big. It also makes it a little harder to hide yarn tails or hide yarn joins. This is just my experience though. I hope this info helps. Thanks for asking. I appreciate your question. 🙂
Hey! Let me tell you this is super helpful and I wanted to ask your for help- What would you say the yarn size is here? It says on the website that the yarn equals 11x 17 stitches and that equals 4 inches. Thanks. The yarn I would be using is Nako Sport Woll and I would be using it for a hat and a shawl. Thanks again.
I'm happy to hear you found the info helpful. As for your yarn, despite having the word "sport" in its name, Nake Sport Wool would be considered a Bulky (5) yarn. Cheers!
Hello! I have a quistion about a yarn I want to use for a scarf. Its called Nako Masal. Would you mind telling me what yarn weight that yarn is ? Thanks!
Hi Jenny! It looks like this is an aran weight yarn (think worsted weight). You can find more info about this yarn here.
My pattern’s gauge is 4.5 stitches = 1 inch in stockinette stitch with larger needles. The suggested yarn is WORSTED (9 wpi) ; needle sizes are: US 6 and US 8.
The yarn I want to use is Hayfield Baby Blossom CHUNKY with a gauge of 14 stitches and 19 rows = 4 inches. Suggested needle size is US 9 and US 10 1/2.
I have seen an image of this sweater in this yarn. Could you let me know what two circular sized needles I should use to get 4.5 stitches to one inch with the chunky yarn?
Ah, if only it were that simple. Gauge will always vary by the knitter, sometimes a little, sometimes a lot. What I would recommend is knitting a swatch in three needle sizes. I'd begin with the US 8 needles and work for about 2" and measure. If you find that you're not close to gauge, go up to the next size, and repeat. Once you find a needle size that is giving you gauge, work that swatch for 4"- 5" to get a truer measurement. I hope this helps. Let me know how it goes. ~ Christina
Thank you so much for responding!
This is a terrific primer on gauge, but I am still fumbling with a simple hat pattern's vague gauge directions. The single pattern allows for six sizes between child and large adult, and is flexible as to type of yarn, but I don't quite follow the gauge instructions:
"Gauges: 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5 & 6
Sizes: child - large adult"
That's it. But 3.5 what? 6 what? Can you shed some light? Thank you.
Thank you so much! Yes, that does sound confusing. Could you tell me the name of the hat pattern? I'm happy to take a look.
This was a great article on gauge. When I've made my swatch I can't get both width and height to match no matter what needles I swith to. I've dropped down 3 needle sizes that gives me the right height but thsnk I still have to use a size or two smaller on the pattern to get width to match gauge is this normal?
Hi Barb! Much thanks for your comment. As far as gauge is concerned, it is more important to get stitch gauge than to get row gauge. Height can always be adjusted. Something else to consider...did you wash and block your swatch? Some yarns bloom and that may end up resolving your problem. Dropping down 3 needle sizes sounds pretty drastic and, I'm sure, will compromise the overall drape and flow of your intended garment. As mentioned in my post, tension may be an issue so gauge will vary from knitter to knitter. I've found that if I'm overthinking my knitting, my tension is tighter which throws everything out of whack. Set it down and come back to it later if need be but you're definitely on the right track. Kudos for swatching! I salute you! Best of luck! ~ Christina 🙂
Hi - What I don't understand and what never seems to be explained with gauge directions is how many stitches do you cast on to the needle in the first place and how many rows do you want to knit?
For example, if the directions say "20 sts/40 rows = 10 cm/4 inches in unblocked garter", does that mean you cast on 20 stitches, knit 40 rows and then measure down to see if it measures 4 inches? Or does it mean you cast on a larger number of stitches (e.g. 40 stitches), knit a larger number of rows (e.g. 60 rows), measure 1 inch across the knitting and then count how many stitches exist in the 1-inch measurement (presumably to be 'on gauge' you'd need there to be 20 stitches per inch), and then measure 4 inches down the knitting and count how many rows exist in 4 inches (presumably 40 rows to be 'on gauge').
Thanks,
M
Hi Mary. Great question. I can’t speak to why each designer doesn’t include the amount of stitches needed to swatch. What they do usually include is their gauge measurements, which will allow you to calculate how many stitches you should cast on. Yes, knitting a gauge swatch can be confusing at first but with time and experience it’ll become clear.
When knitting a gauge swatch, you never want to do the bare minimum. In your example of 20 sts X 40 rows = 4” garter stitch, I’d recommend casting on more than the 20 stitches. You don’t have to double your stitches, unless you want to. You just want to be able to have more than the minimum to check for stitch variance, tension changes, and to avoid edge stitches and CO/BO stitches. You want to be able to measure 4 inches squared of whatever your stitch pattern may be without interruption.
The goal is to measure a larger piece, not 1 or 2 inch increments, because sometimes it takes knitters to get into the flow and stitch size and shape can vary. Measuring a larger piece will reduce the chance that your finished garment is too big/small. Make sense?
I hope this explanation helped and thanks for sharing your question. Best of luck!
Hello, thank you for the great article! I am trying to knit something similar to swatch image at the start of the article. Would you happen to know the yarn weight, knitting gauge, knit style, and material used on that swatch? Also I am trying to recreate it using a 100% cotton yarn, would that affect any of the specifications?
Thank you,
K
You're very welcome, Kris. I'm glad you enjoyed it. The swatch image was knit in stockinette stitch with Cascade 220 Worsted Weight yarn. I can't seem to locate my original swatch so I can't provide my gauge info. Yes, recreating it with a different yarn fiber will affect the end result, which is why it is important to swatch. Good luck!
I am still having a hard time getting the gauge. I change my needle size and I still cant' get it. It is very upsetting trying to get it. Could you please try to help me.
Shirley, sorry to hear you're having a hard time. I know it can be frustrating. I'm happy to try to help you, but I need more information. Message me at info@knitfarious.com and let me know what yarn/needles you're working with and what aspects of gauge you're not meeting. Are you experiencing too many/too few stitches? Are you meeting width but not height or vice versa? What problems are you experiencing? Be as detailed as possible and I'll see what I can do.
It calls for a size 10/half needle and red heart yarn soft 4 ply. That’s what I am using. But I keep getting to many stitches, and I go down a needle size and still can’t get it. It says do the gauge by the pattern. I always have a hard time.
Thanks for the info, Shirley.
Ok, so when you're knitting your swatch, how many stitches are you casting on? How big is your swatch before measuring? How are you measuring?
You say it's too big...what measurements are you getting? What are the measurements given for gauge in your pattern?
I know that's a lot of questions but it's all part of the process. Hang in there.
Hi,
Thanks for the direction - although I am reluctant to gauge I completely understand why. My sweater recommends size 7 US but I want to start it and can only find size 8 in my collection of needles so I will test the gauge. My question is the instructions are below but don't understand what she means in the RND.
28 sts and 30 rows = 4" over Honeycomb
chart flat and in the rnd, blocked.
28 sts and 30 rows = 4" over Antler chart
flat and in the rnd, blocked.
26 sts and 28 rows = 4" in K2, P2 Rib flat
and in the rnd, blocked
Hi Liz! You're welcome. The instructions for RND, or Round, means you'll need to knit a swatch in the round as it'll give you different measurements than if you were knitting flat (or back and forth). You can find a tutorial on how to knit a swatch in the round here, in case you need one. I hope this helps!
Thanks for the info. But my question is if the length is 4” but stitches are only 3 1/2 inches (after blocking) what to do? I went to a larger needle & got 4 1/2 rows & 3 1/2 stitches. Not sure here.
Hi Lynne! It sounds like your swatch is too small to begin with. You're not measuring the swatch as a whole, you're measuring an area of knitting. In general, you want to measure an area that doesn't include the cast on, bind off, or edges. It's also recommended that you cast on extra stitches than, say, what the ball band recommends to get 4" so feel free to cast on extra stitches. Yes, it's a little more work but you'll get a truer gauge.
I sincerely applaud your efforts and even going so far as blocking it to check. Kudos to you! I'd try swatching again with more stitches and knitting for at least 5" and then repeating your steps. I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any more questions.
I consistently get stitch per inch but am short row per inch. I have successfully made adjustments for this is certain patterns, not always. I am working on a double knitting pattern with figures in alternating colors. I’m afraid the little elephants will be squashed! How do I adjust for this row difference without changing the stitch per inch!
Hi JoEllen! Double knitting is definitely on my list to tackle this year so unfortunately I can't provide a personal tip or remedy. What I do know about double knitting from my research, is that it requires you to go down several needle sizes to get gauge. As far as gauge goes, speaking generally, I've always heard that it's better to meet stitches per inch vs rows per inch, but I'm not sure what your project is and how ignoring rows per inch might affect your knitted piece. I even consulted a book I have on double knitting and it, too, had little to say about rows per inch. I would say, then, to knit a gauge swatch in pattern, if you're not doing that already, to see how the pattern design plays out. I hope this is some help to you.
Christina,
Thanks for the reply. I have consulted MANY sources and have found the same answer. I have actually gone up a size to get stitch gauge on this project and still don’t meet row. This is a constant in my knitting. One source suggested using needles from different materials in the same size, ie steel vs bamboo. I haven’t found that it helps. I’m doing a swatch and hopefully the little elephants in this pattern won’t be too squashed. I’ll let you know. Again, appreciate the response.
JoEllen
You're welcome. I, too, was surprised by the lack of info I could find to provide you a better answer. And it sounds like you've done your research, too, in trying different needle materials, etc. The only other thing you could try is knitting with two different size needles to meet in the middle. In other words, if you're knitting with size U.S. 4 needles, try knitting with a 4 and a 5. It can't hurt to try. If all else fails, try a different yarn and see if you have different results. Sometimes that could be the issue, too. Best of luck!
Hi Christina, my swatch guage is half a stitch out and half a row out, I'm not so bothered about the rows as I can adjust, but should I switch to a larger needle to get the extra half stitch
Hi Ann. It depends on what you're making. In some cases, you can do some quick math to account for multiple half-stitches. Also, if you haven't yet washed and blocked your swatch, that may solve the problem altogether. I hope this helps!
Thanks for your reply Christina, I'll try blocking because I'm knitting with super chunky yarn on 15mm needles. The next size up is 20mm so this would'n't work
Hello! I love your site and this article is so helpful but I had a question about adjusting gauge. When you bring the needle one size up or down does it increase by a whole stitch or half a stitch? In other words if my yarn is 14 sts/4 inches on size 9 (5.5 mm) needles, and I want to bring it to 15 sts/4 inches, would I use size 8 needles, which are half a mm smaller, or size 7, a full mm smaller?
Hi Tatum! Thank you for your kind words and taking the time to comment.
In response to your question, unfortunately, there's no hard and fast rule about yarn gauge as yarns will vary, your knitting tension varies, etc. As for knitting needles, smaller needles = more stitches, larger needles = fewer stitches. Try the smaller needles when you swatch, measure, then adjust as needed. Don't forget to wash and block. I hope this helps!
For me I have just completed a triangular scarf which calls for a gauge, now my question is I have already done the binding and now how do I start the gauge, like do u cast on again and how does that get done to the finished scarf the stitches are
16 stitches to 4" in garter stitch please dear can you explain the process.
Hi Cynthia! Gauge is always done BEFORE starting a project to determine if your knitting jibes with the designer's measurements. If you've already knit a triangular scarf and its measurements are within the range specified by the designer, then lucky you! If not, then knit a gauge swatch in garter stitch before starting again. I'd suggest casting on 25+ stitches, then knit in garter stitch until your swatch measures about 5 inches to get a true measurement. If you're on target, then proceed to knitting the scarf. Does this make sense? Let me know if you have more questions. ~Christina
Hello Christina
The presenter of the pattern, started off with the three stitches and then it was the increase stitches but there was nothing about the gauge, I started knitting the scarf, so now I have to forget about the swatch gauge altogether, not so happy about what happened , but I will know for the future.
Thanks dear and nice of you to respond, but in case I need your help I shall get back to you, hope that is ok bye Cynthia.