Knitting a gauge swatch is one of the most important steps before starting a knitting project. It’s also one of the most dreaded steps next to weaving in ends. But there’s no need to feel this way. In this Guide to Knitting Gauge, I’ll explain what a swatch is, why it’s important to swatch, and discuss knitting gauge.
What is a Swatch?
I hear knitters frequently ask, what does it mean to swatch?
In simplest terms, a knitting gauge swatch is a small sample of what your end product will look like. It is usually a knitted square made with the needles, yarn, and pattern you intend to use for your project.
Why Swatch?
If you’re planning to knit something that needs to be a particular size, be prepared to knit a swatch beforehand.
I know, I know...I can just hear the collective groan. But if you’re willing to invest the time to knit a sweater or other fitted piece, wouldn’t it be nice if it actually fit?
I mean, let’s face it. You’ve invested time and money on your craft. Why half-ass your way through a knitting pattern without knitting a gauge swatch? There’s really no excuse not to and, in the end, it’ll make you a better knitter. There. I’ve said it.
There are several other reasons why you should swatch. Firstly, the purpose of a knitted swatch is to determine knitting gauge.
To do so, you will need to evaluate the way your knitting needles, project yarn, and your knitting tension mix. The only way to properly evaluate this is to swatch.
Swatching will tell you if:
- your knitting needles are right for the project.
- the yarn you want to use is right for the project.
- you need to learn or need more practice on a certain skill.
- if your knitting tension needs adjustment.
- you need more blocking experience.
- the project or pattern is worth completing at all.
To summarize, it’s important to swatch before you knit to determine if the tools you’re working with are a good collaboration.
What do I mean by this?
Well, not all needles and yarn play nice with each other. And not all yarn materials are universal in size and texture. You want to use the right tools, i.e., yarn and knitting needles, to create a knitted piece that doesn’t end up hidden in the back of the closet.
By knitting a swatch, you will determine if the yarn and tools you’re working with are worth your time and effort or if you need to find alternatives.
All of this is necessary in order to meet knitting gauge.
What is Knitting Gauge?
Knitting gauge is the required number of stitches per inch horizontally, and the number of rows per inch vertically.
Why is this important to know?
It's important to know because these measurements will determine the size of your finished project.
When reading a knitting pattern, the designer will (should!) include the knitting needle brand and size, and the yarn used in the construction of the piece.
How to Read a Knitting Pattern
Understanding Knitting Gauge
Let’s say the knitting pattern uses Cascade 220 yarn in worsted weight. The designer's materials listed for gauge are size 8 (10mm) knitting needles and the swatch is knit in stockinette stitch.
A target gauge should also be included in the pattern. Gauge will be shown like this:
Gauge: 20 sts/28 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
This means that gauge is 20 stitches (width) and 28 rows (height) equaling four inches squared in stockinette stitch.
Your goal is to match the stitch gauge AND the row gauge the designer lists on the knitting pattern.
Based on this information, you would begin by knitting a pattern swatch with the same yarn (or similar worsted weight yarn) and with size 8 knitting needles. This is your starting point.
Yarn Weight Chart
The handy chart below gives you the standard weight system implemented by the Craft Yarn Council. It shows:
- the various yarn gauges or yarn weights in each class;
- the types of yarn in each weight;
- the recommended needle size per weight;
- and the stitches per 4" in a stockinette swatch.
Still have questions about knitting gauge? Don't worry, there's more to come.
Let's recap though.
By now you understand what a swatch is, why it's important to knit one, and have learned about knitting gauge. The next step is to start swatching. So pick a pattern, choose your yarn, and grab your knitting needles!
Need some pattern inspiration? Check out our collections of free scarf patterns, cowl patterns, and baby blankets. Looking for beginner colorwork patterns? You can find mosaic knitting patterns here and an 80s inspired mosaic cowl here.
I really like your website. Full of clear, concise information. Thanks for the lesson on gauge. I have been stressing about it for weeks now. Cheers. I am bookmarking this site.
Thank you so much! I'm so glad you found it helpful.
Yes, gauge is one of those things in knitting that can be stressful at first but, with practice, it'll become second nature. Best of luck!
I need to get a substitute yarn for a garter stitch project. The gauge is given over garter stitch in the pattern. Is it possible to convert this to a stocking stitch gauge to allow me to choose a suitable yarn substitute? Yarns give their gauge information in stocking stitch, so I’m struggling.
Great question! It sounds like: 1. you already have a pattern in mind but they list gauge in garter stitch; and 2. you want to find a yarn substitute for the yarn listed/used in the pattern.
Here's what I would do. There's a great online site called Yarnsub.com. I'd search there and see what yarn substitution recommendations they have for the yarn used in the pattern. Assuming the yarn is a common or popular one, you're likely to find a workable result there. Then, I'd knit a gauge swatch in garter stitch with your new yarn. As there's no true method to convert stockinette gauge to garter stitch gauge without knitting a gauge swatch to get your estimates, this is your best option. But you can always make your yarn work for you so long as you swatch and adjust needle size accordingly.
I hope this helps! Best of luck! Christina
My swatch works out for the row count but is 1/2” short for the stitch count. I am afraid I do not understand how to make adjustments. I am using the yarn and needle size recommended. I am not sure what I need to do.
I applaud your swatching efforts! Good job! To make adjustments, there are a couple of options to try. 1) You could try knitting a new swatch with a different needle material in the same size. 2) Depending on how crucial length is to this project, you could knit until you've reached the called-for length. 3) You could try an alternate yarn and/or pattern. This last option is more extreme, of course, but sometimes certain fibers and materials just don't play nice with each other. I sincerely hope this helps! Best of luck! ~Christina
Hi!
This is a helpful guide, but I am confused about one thing. You say towards the beginning of this guide that the gauge is the number of stitches and rows required *per inch*, but later you write,
“20 sts/28 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch”
Following the first statement, I would need 80 stitches for width and 112 rows for height, but then you explain that
“This means that gauge is 20 stitches (width) and 28 rows (height) equaling four inches squared in stockinette stitch.”
Am I missing something? Because I just cast on 16 stitches for this blanket I’m knitting, but... that does not come to 4”. Thank you!
I’m glad you found the guide helpful though a little confusing. Sorry about that. The confusion sounds like it’s coming from the “per inch” statement.
Based on the numbers you gave it sounds like you might be trying to knit a blanket that’s 16 inches square?
20 stitches X 4 inches = 80 sts (16” wide)
28 stitches X 4 inches = 112 sts (16” tall)
That formula was just an example, but it’s not a guarantee. As I mentioned in the post, gauge can vary based on needle size, yarn, and how you knit. Be sure to check your ball band for recommendations, too.
I’m not sure where the 16 sts comes in but, you’re right, that would roughly give you 3” square blanket.
If you want to knit a larger blanket, you’ll have to factor in stitches based on the formula. If using a different stitch pattern and/or borders, just remember to swatch first to account for stitch behavior.
I hope this helps! Let me know if you have additional questions.
Hello! If I have a pattern that calls for chunky wool (weight 5) that has a gauge of 2.5 stitches per inch on size 10 needles, but I am using a lighter acrylic yarn that has a gauge of 16 stitches per 4 inches, I need to figure out how to convert. The chunky wool pattern calls for casting on 25 stitches (for 10 inches). Can I cast on 40 stitches of my lighter yard (16 for 4 inches plus 16 for 4 inches plus 8 for 2 inches)? Also, the gauges all seem to be given in stockinette stitch but this hat is garter stitch. Do I have to worry about converting the gauge or since the gauges are standard in stockinette, is it fine to just do the calculation to get to 10 inches of stitches? Thank you! Judy
Hi! Thanks for the comment. So, a couple of things going on here. First, you WILL need to swatch in garter stitch since that's what the pattern swatch called for. Garter stitch is wider and denser (read: yarn hog) than stockinette so you'll need to start there. You could also try going up a needle size with the lighter yarn to see if you can meet gauge without having to convert everything. If that doesn't work, swatching in garter stitch should give you a better feel for how much you'll need to convert. I hope this helps!
Hello,
I am planning on making a blanket using a garter ribbing stitch. I would like the blanket to have a chunkier knit but still be able to see the pattern. Do you have any suggestions for the yarn weight and/or needle size?
Thank you!
Hi there! I've found that rib stitch patterns show up the best, which looks great on blankets. I wouldn't worry about losing the ribs in a chunky blanket, unless you're planning to use a wildly variegated yarn. My only recommendation is to knit with something you're comfortable with. Personally, I'd say go with something in a chunky/bulky (5). This is because I find anything larger too heavy, and the needles too big. It also makes it a little harder to hide yarn tails or hide yarn joins. This is just my experience though. I hope this info helps. Thanks for asking. I appreciate your question. 🙂
Hey! Let me tell you this is super helpful and I wanted to ask your for help- What would you say the yarn size is here? It says on the website that the yarn equals 11x 17 stitches and that equals 4 inches. Thanks. The yarn I would be using is Nako Sport Woll and I would be using it for a hat and a shawl. Thanks again.
I'm happy to hear you found the info helpful. As for your yarn, despite having the word "sport" in its name, Nake Sport Wool would be considered a Bulky (5) yarn. Cheers!