Knitting a gauge swatch is one of the most important steps before starting a knitting project. For most knitters, it’s also one of the most dreaded steps next to weaving in knitting ends.
However, there’s no need to feel this way. In this Guide to Knitting Gauge, I’ll explain several things to make you feel more confident about knitting gauge and knitting a gauge swatch.
First, I’ll begin by discussing what a knit swatch is. Second, we’ll talk about what gauge in knitting means and what it has to do with a knitting a gauge swatch. Next, I’ll explain why it’s so important to swatch for your knit project.
We’ll go through each step in detail and answer all your questions so you’re able to go forth and knit confidently. Let’s begin by discussing and defining what a knit swatch is.
Get the Paseo Blanket Pattern here.
Get Berroco Ultra Wool DK yarn for this knitting project.
Table of contents
- What is a Knit Swatch?
- What Does a Knit Swatch Have to Do with Knitting Gauge?
- Why Should I Knit a Swatch?
- What Does a Knit Swatch Do?
- Choosing the Right Tools for Knitting a Gauge Swatch
- What is Knitting Gauge?
- Why is Stitch Gauge Important?
- Is Row Gauge Important?
- Why is Knitting Gauge Important?
- Knitting a Gauge Swatch
- What Factors Affect My Knitting Gauge?
- Do I Have to Knit a Gauge Swatch?
- Knitting Gauge FAQs
What is a Knit Swatch?
You’ve probably heard other knitters talk about knit swatches, usually with dread or annoyance. Annoyance because we are impatient creatures and just want to start knitting. Dread because many knitters don’t know what a knit swatch is or what it has to do with knitting gauge.
I can’t help you with overcoming annoyance, but I can certainly help you with knit swatches and gauge.
In simplest terms, a knit swatch is a small knitted sample of a stitch pattern. This could be a pattern from a knitting book, a knitting blog, or from a pattern website. It could also come from a designer’s knitted accessory pattern, for example, like one found on Ravelry.com.
In other words, the beginning of a knit you want to design, or a finished design from another knitter. Here's an example of some test swatches I knit for my Lazy River mosaic cowl pattern.
Learn more about mosaic knitting here and find other slip stitch patterns here.
Get the Lazy River Cowl knitting pattern here.
Get Malabrigo Sock yarn in Aniversario for this knitting pattern.
When you knit a swatch, you’ll use the exact knitting needles, yarn, and (stitch) pattern you intend to use for your knitting project. I’ll go into why these knitting tools are so important later on in this post.
What Does a Knit Swatch Have to Do with Knitting Gauge?
Now, you might be asking yourself, why is she talking about a knit swatch? I thought this was about knitting gauge.
I am still talking about gauge. See, you can’t figure out knitting gauge unless you have a knit swatch to measure against.
As you’ll learn in this post, there are multiple steps that go into figuring out knitting gauge. Knitting a swatch is just the main one.
So bear with me as I unpack this post on knitting gauge, as it’s quite a detailed one. Let’s start with why you should knit a swatch.
Why Should I Knit a Swatch?
There are a variety of reasons why you should knit a swatch. You'd knit a swatch to try out a new yarn or different knitting needles. Perhaps you want to practice a new knitting technique. Like, for example, maybe you want to learn how to cast on in the middle of a row.
Or maybe you found a cool pattern that you want to experiment with. You’d definitely want to make a knitting pattern swatch to see how the design works up.
If you want to learn how to design your own knitting patterns, you should knit a swatch to determine look, feel, shape, and size. Along this line, knitting a swatch will help you to determine the fabric’s drape.
Drape is the way your finished knit looks and hangs. Incorrect gauge can be the difference between fluttery shawls or stiff ones, for example.
Still, the most important reason why you should knit a swatch is if size and fit are critical to your finished knit.
What Does a Knit Swatch Do?
Some knitters think a knit swatch is something they can just skip over, like an introduction to a book. This would be a mistake though. A swatch gives you so much information about a knitting pattern.
Here’s what a knit swatch does and what you can learn from it.
Knitting a swatch:
- Gives you a chance to play with yarn, yarn fiber, and yarn color(s).
- Tells you if the yarn weight is ideal for your knitting project.
- Helps you experiment with yarn colors or color combinations.
- Shows you if the yarn hides or reveals the stitch pattern or colorwork design.
- Tells you if the yarn fiber is easy or difficult to work with.
- Determines how the knitting needles work with the yarn you’ve chosen.
- Reveals your knitting tension and tells you if adjustments are needed.
- Tells you if you need more practice on a new knitting technique or stitch.
- Allows you to wash and dry your swatch to see how the yarn behaves.
- Tells you if you’ll need to block your knitting.
- Gives you a snapshot of what your finished knitted piece will look like.
- Helps you decide if you’re happy with the outcome and want to continue.
As you can see, a knit swatch is a detailed collaboration of so many things. It can provide so much information BEFORE you start knitting your project.
Choosing the Right Tools for Knitting a Gauge Swatch
By now you’re beginning to realize how important it is to choose the right knitting tools for your project. They play a huge part when you first knit a swatch and on your finished knit.
As I mentioned earlier, when you’re ready to knit a gauge swatch, you’ll use the exact knitting needles, yarn, and (stitch) pattern you intend to use for your knitting project.
What Should I Know about Choosing Yarn for My Gauge Swatch?
It’s important to use the same color and dye lot for your swatch as for your knitting project. This is because yarn density, how thick or thin your yarn is, may vary from color to color.
It can also vary within the same brand, line, and color of yarn. This is a result of the color treatment, chemical treatment (ex. superwash yarn), or hand dye process the yarn goes through.
You should also purchase an extra yarn hank or ball of yarn for your project. It’s good insurance in case there’s a just in case, and won't cut into your pattern's required yarn.
What Should I Know about Choosing Knitting Needles for My Gauge Swatch?
When I wrote this post on knitting needles, I talked about how they go through different manufacturing processes. This can cause some inconsistencies from one brand to another. Knitting needles will also vary depending on the type of material they’re made from, which can affect your knitting gauge.
Try these ChiaoGoo Bamboo Interchangeable Needles.
For example, if you were to knit a swatch with bamboo knitting needles, and then switch to metal knitting needles on your project, you’d run the risk of having your project size change.
Try these ChiaoGoo Metal Knitting Needle Interchangeable set.
So, choose your knitting tools carefully and stick with them for the best results.
Now, let’s talk about knitting gauge.
What is Knitting Gauge?
If your goal is to design a knit pattern, you’ll need to look at the yarn label for recommended gauge for that particular yarn. You can learn more about reading a yarn label here.
If you’re reading a knitting pattern from a designer, look for the knitting needle size, the yarn name and yarn colorway used in the construction of the knit piece. More importantly, though, look for the stitch gauge and row gauge the pattern calls for.
This means how many knit stitches per inch (spi) and how many rows per inch. Let’s elaborate on this.
How is Knitting Gauge Written?
Let’s look at this yarn label (below) of Lion Brand’s Wool Ease DK weight yarn. I’ve bracketed the important details in pink.
Their recommended gauge calls for size 5 knitting needles, which produced a knitting gauge of 22 stitches and 30 rows in 4 inches.
In knitting patterns, you should find knitting gauge written like this:
Gauge: 22 sts X 30 rows = 4 inches / 10 centimeters
The recommended gauge may include inches and/or centimeters, but not always both. Just simply convert it if you need to.
Also, you may find the recommended gauge written in 1”, 2” or 4” increments. Again, adjust as needed.
How is Knitting Gauge Determined?
You may be wondering, how did they come to this recommended gauge? This is how they measured gauge.
They knit a large swatch in stockinette stitch using the size 5 knitting needles. Then, they measured a four inch (10 cm) section and found that their knitting produced 22 stitches (width) by 30 rows (height). This is how they determined their knitting gauge.
Let me break it down even further. The 22 stitches shows your stitches per four inches, or your stitch gauge. The 30 stitches are your row gauge measurements over four inches.
For your knit swatch, you’ll want to know your stitch gauge, or how many stitches per inch (spi), as well as your row gauge and how many rows per inch.
Your goal is to match the stitch gauge AND the row gauge
the designer lists on the knitting pattern.
Why are these measurements so important? Let’s discuss.
Why is Stitch Gauge Important?
Stitch gauge and row gauge measurements are what determine the size of your finished knit. You’ll calculate knitting gauge from your gauge swatch, which will tell you if your finished project will fit correctly.
Also, proper knitting gauge will save you from playing yarn chicken with the quantity of yarn you bought for your project. For example, if you’re a tight knitter, you’ll use more yarn because you’ll create a denser fabric. If you’re a loose knitter, you’ll use less yarn and have a looser fabric.
Is Row Gauge Important?
Now, when it comes to row gauge, you’ll find that it isn’t as critical as stitch gauge. There are a lot of knitting patterns where length doesn’t matter, like with a knitted scarf or knitted toys.
However, there are some knitting patterns where row gauge IS critical. Here are some examples where row gauge matters:
- When knitting gloves, mittens, and knitted hats.
- Knitting Fair Isle or other colorwork knitting patterns.
- With knitted garments that require waist shaping, adjusting sleeve lengths, sleeve tapering, etc.
- When knitting sweaters, especially Raglan or Yoke sweaters, where you have to calculate increases and decreases over length.
Why is Knitting Gauge Important?
If you don’t know your knitting gauge, then you won’t know what size your finished knit will be. Without correct knitting gauge, it can be the difference between “fit” and “fail”.
Let’s use the example of knitting a sweater and assume that the pattern’s gauge is 8 stitches per inch (or 32 stitches per four inches). The sweater size you want to knit has a circumference of 40 inches around.
Then, if you acquired the exact gauge for this pattern, you’d cast on a total of 320 stitches. Let me show you how I came to this number.
8 stitches per inch multiplied by 40 inches circumference = 320 stitches OR
8 sts per in. X 40 in. = 320 sts (cast on)
Now, let’s say that your swatch measured 7.4 stitches per inch. Maybe you thought, eh, close enough and you went ahead and started knitting. Here’s how that would play out:
320 sts (cast on) divided by 7.4 sts per in. = 43.24 inches (larger)
Or say your knitting gauge was more than 8 stitches per inch. Let’s use 8.4 spi for our example.
320 sts (cast on) divided by 8.4 sts per in. = 38.09 inches (smaller)
As you can see, even a fraction of a number can affect your outcome. This is why knitting gauge is important.
Helpful Tips About Knitting Gauge
Here are some helpful tips to remember about knitting gauge:
- Smaller size knitting needles = smaller knit stitches.
- Smaller knit stitches = more stitches per inch.
- Thinner yarn = more stitches per inch.
- Larger knitting needles = bigger stitches.
- Larger knit stitches = fewer stitches per inch.
- Thicker yarn = fewer stitches per inch.
Knitting a Gauge Swatch
Let’s now talk about knitting a gauge swatch for a finished knitting pattern and a stitch pattern, respectively. I’ll also go into what to do when no recommended information is given.
How Do I Swatch for a Knitting Pattern?
Say you purchased a knitting pattern online that you want to knit a swatch for. I’ll use my Eenie Meenie Baby Blanket pattern as an example. Here’s what you need to do.
First, look at the knitting pattern for the gauge measurements and the knitting needle sizes. In the image above you can see that the gauge is 19 sts X 27 rows in 4 in. using size 7 knitting needles.
The recommended gauge and size 7 knitting needles are your starting point. Would you cast on 19 stitches for your knit swatch? No, you’d need to cast on more than the recommended number. I’ll explain why shortly. For now, let’s cover how to swatch for a stitch pattern.
How Do I Knit a Stitch Pattern Gauge Swatch?
If you’re knitting a swatch from a stitch pattern book, you'll notice that it doesn’t give you a starting point. It’s only the stitch pattern with no yarn weight or needle size recommendations.
So, here’s what you do to knit a stitch pattern gauge swatch.
First, choose your yarn. Second, look to the yarn label for their recommendations on where to begin.
Say you wanted to use the Lion Brand’s Wool Ease DK weight yarn we talked about earlier. Their yarn label recommends size 5 knitting needles to produce a knitting gauge of 22 stitches X 30 rows in 4”.
Would you cast on 22 stitches and start knitting? Again, no. You’d need to cast on more than the recommended number. Plus, you’d have to factor in the stitch pattern’s required multiple of stitches.
Get Lettie's Ocean Shawl knitting pattern here.
Try Cascade 220 Worsted weight yarn for your shawl project.
What if My Yarn Label Doesn’t List Knitting Gauge?
In this case, a yarn weight chart comes in handy since stitch patterns often don’t provide any design instructions. So if your yarn label doesn’t list knitting gauge, there’s a workaround for that.
Take a look at the Ultimate Yarn Weight Cheat Sheet I created for you. Here you can see four categories.
The Weight Category lists 8 different yarn weights from 0 to 7. The Types Category lists the different types of yarn found in each yarn weight. The Needle Size Category shows the recommended needle sizes for each yarn weight. The Stitches per Inch Category tells you how many stitches per four inches using the recommended needle size.
To knit a gauge swatch for a stitch pattern, use this cheat sheet to find your cast on starting point. For example, for a bulky or chunky yarn, it shows recommended needle sizes of 9 to 11 with an estimated 12 to 15 stitches per 4 inches.
Again, do you just cast on 15 stitches? No, for a knit swatch using bulky yarn, you’ll need to cast on more than 15 stitches.
Now, let me explain why you’d want to cast on more stitches than the gauge’s measurements.
How Many Stitches Should I Cast On for My Swatch?
One of the most frequently asked questions when it comes to knitting a gauge swatch is how many stitches should I cast on? Here’s what you should do.
If you’re working from a knitting pattern, first look for their gauge measurements. Using the baby blanket example from before, it shows 19 sts X 27 rows = 4” using worsted weight yarn.
Again, you wouldn’t cast on 19 stitches for your swatch because this is the gauge measurement. Here’s why you should cast on more stitches for your knit swatch.
When you measure your gauge swatch, you don’t want to include the knit selvedges or the cast on / bind off borders in your measurements. You want a large knit sample to determine your best gauge. If you only cast on and knit 19 stitches, you’ll be contending with the selvedges and knit borders.
A good rule of thumb is to cast on at least 6 – 10 more stitches than the gauge indicates. Using the above example of 19 sts, you’d cast on 25 – 29 stitches.
But what about adding a knit border?
Should I Add a Garter Stitch Border to My Gauge Swatch?
Some knitters prefer to add a garter stitch border and several knit selvedge stitches to each side of their swatch. The reason they do this is to help the swatch lay flat for easy measurement, especially if the center is stockinette stitch.
It’s not required but you may find that you prefer to do it. This is entirely up to you.
Following the rule of thumb from earlier, you’d then cast on additional stitches. Still using the Eenie Meenie blanket gauge as an example, it'd look like this:
Pattern Gauge Measurement: 19 sts
Recommended Cast On Stitches (no border): 25 to 29 stitches
With Border Stitches: (+3) 25 to 29 stitches (+3) = 31 to 35 stitches.
These are just recommendations and based on a worsted weight yarn. You’ll need to adjust according to yarn weight, needle sizes, etc.
As for the garter stitch border, you’ll just knit a couple of rows before and after the stitch pattern before you bind off.
Okay, so now that we’ve covered how many stitches to cast on, selvedges and knit borders, let’s talk about the size of the swatch.
What Size Swatch Do I Need to Knit?
You’ve already seen that gauge is usually measured in four inches. However, you’ll want to knit a swatch that’s larger than this, at least 5 or 6 inches, for better accuracy.
Again, the reason you’d knit a larger swatch is to be able to measure the middle without being encumbered by the edges and cast on/bind off.
Now, up to this point, we’ve talked in a roundabout way about how to knit a gauge swatch but haven’t put it all together. Let’s do that now.
How to Knit a Gauge Swatch
These are the steps you’ll need to take to knit a gauge swatch.
First, gather your knitting needles and yarn.
Second, cast on the necessary number of stitches for your swatch. Include any selvedge knit stitches if you prefer.
Third, knit in the stitch pattern specified for your project. Knit until your swatch measures four inches, or until you’ve completed the pattern repeats for four inches or greater.
Fourth, bind off loosely.
Fifth, wash and block your swatch in the manner you intend to use for your finished project.
Finally, measure your knit swatch once completely dry.
What Factors Affect My Knitting Gauge?
As humans, we all knit differently and can be affected by a variety of things, which can affect our knitting.
Here are some factors that can affect your knitting gauge:
- Your mood.
- Your knitting tension.
- Knitting needle size and material.
- Yarn weight and type of yarn fiber.
- The type of stitch pattern (cable knits, seed stitch, etc.).
- Your style of knitting (Portuguese, Continental, English, etc.)
The most important thing to pay attention to when knitting a gauge swatch is your knitting tension.
What is Knitting Tension?
Knitting tension is how tight or how loosely you knit. Like your heart rate, your knitting tension will often change from day to day. It can change if you’re stressed or distracted. It can even change when you’re using different knitting needle materials.
Here's an excellent post on the mysteries of gauge and knitting tension.
You might even knit differently from row to row, or round to round, which can cause irregularities in the knit fabric. These are all things you want to pay attention to.
Learn how to cast on in the round and how to knit a swatch in the round here.
What you’re looking for is consistency in your knitting. You should knit your swatch as you would when you’re not knitting under pressure. Stress knitting is definitely a no-no.
The more stressed you are, the less likely you’ll get an accurate gauge. Plus, you want to knit the gauge swatch as if you’re knitting the pattern. You want to be able to keep gauge throughout because the measuring doesn’t end with the swatch.
If the process requires numerous attempts until you meet the pattern’s knitting gauge, that’s okay. Take your time. Relax. Enjoy the process.
Do I Have to Knit a Gauge Swatch?
Ah, the ultimate question. It’s true, there are certain knitting projects where gauge is not an absolute requirement. Knitting patterns that don’t require your knit to fit, you can generally forego knitting a swatch. Some examples are:
However, if you’re knitting a hat, knit socks, a sweater, etc., your finished project will require a gauge swatch. Plus, it's not a bad idea to get in the habit of knitting gauge swatches. The more you do it, the more comfortable you’ll get with the process.
As you practice more and gain more experience, you may learn to not dread swatches.
Knitting Gauge FAQs
Here's a list of frequently asked questions I get about gauge. I'll continue to update this section as needed.
My knitting pattern doesn’t tell me how to knit my gauge swatch.
What do I do?
Unless your knitting pattern tells you to knit in garter stitch or some other stitch pattern, assume that they mean stockinette stitch.
What do I do with my finished swatch?
Keep your knit swatch so you can compare your work in progress (WIP) to your finished gauge measurements. This will help you stay on track.
What if the pattern lists different stitch pattern gauges?
You’ll need to knit a swatch in each pattern to determine each pattern’s gauge.
My knitting pattern lists two knitting needle sizes. Do I have to knit a swatch with both?
Look at your knitting pattern carefully and determine which size was used for the main body of fabric. You’ll knit your swatch in this needle size. When two or more needle sizes are listed, the smaller sizes are usually for borders or edges, not for fit.
What does it mean to knit a swatch in pattern?
Just like when a pattern asks you to bind off in pattern, the same rules apply. This means that you’ll need to knit a swatch in the stitch that your knitting pattern uses.
If you’re making a seed stitch pattern, for example, your gauge instructions may say to knit your swatch in pattern. In this case, you’d knit a swatch in seed stitch.
Will yarn fiber change my knitting gauge?
Yes, some yarns have memory, while some do not. Knitting a swatch with wool yarn will result in a different gauge from a swatch knit with cotton yarn.
Alright, so we’ve discussed what a knit swatch is, what gauge means in knitting, why gauge is so important, and how to knit a gauge swatch. We’ve even covered factors which could affect your knitting.
The next step is to start knitting a gauge swatch. So pick a pattern, choose your yarn, and grab your knitting needles! Next time, we’ll talk about knitting gauge tools and how to measure gauge in knitting (coming soon!).
In the meantime, continue to send me your questions if they weren’t addressed here. I’m happy to help.
I really like your website. Full of clear, concise information. Thanks for the lesson on gauge. I have been stressing about it for weeks now. Cheers. I am bookmarking this site.
Thank you so much! I'm so glad you found it helpful.
Yes, gauge is one of those things in knitting that can be stressful at first but, with practice, it'll become second nature. Best of luck!
Hi, I am going to knit a shrug. Yarn is Super Bulky #6 and pattern calls for US 15 needles with a gauge of 6sts, 12 rows = 4 inches. The yarn I'm looking at has a gauge that is different 9 sts, 13 rows =4". I don't know how to figure out if this yarn will work. I'm thinking yes since the pattern calls for larger needles but same weight of yarn. Also pattern is working with acrylic/wool mix and the yarn I'm buying is only acrylic. Thanks for any help.
Hi Denise! The best way to tell if it will work is to knit a gauge swatch. There's really no way around it. Given the size of the needles and yarn weight, it should be a quick knit. Better to discover if it will work sooner rather than later, especially if fit is involved. Good luck!
I need to get a substitute yarn for a garter stitch project. The gauge is given over garter stitch in the pattern. Is it possible to convert this to a stocking stitch gauge to allow me to choose a suitable yarn substitute? Yarns give their gauge information in stocking stitch, so I’m struggling.
Great question! It sounds like: 1. you already have a pattern in mind but they list gauge in garter stitch; and 2. you want to find a yarn substitute for the yarn listed/used in the pattern.
Here's what I would do. There's a great online site called Yarnsub.com. I'd search there and see what yarn substitution recommendations they have for the yarn used in the pattern. Assuming the yarn is a common or popular one, you're likely to find a workable result there. Then, I'd knit a gauge swatch in garter stitch with your new yarn. As there's no true method to convert stockinette gauge to garter stitch gauge without knitting a gauge swatch to get your estimates, this is your best option. But you can always make your yarn work for you so long as you swatch and adjust needle size accordingly.
I hope this helps! Best of luck! Christina
Guage 1 is perfect in width but length to short by 1/2 inch.
Guage 2 is perfect in length but width is too narrow by 1/4 inch.
Any suggestions?
Hi Carolyn! I'd need more info to help you troubleshoot your gauge swatch.
It sounds like you knit two swatches but you didn't specify if you used different needle sizes for each.
Are you casting on more stitches than what gauge requires? In other words, if your pattern's gauge swatch says you need 19 stitches per 4 inches, are you casting on more/less than 19 stitches?
Also, did you wash and block your swatches? If you haven't, doing this might be the difference you need to get gauge.
What type of project are you working on? This may play an important role in meeting row gauge.
If you can share more details, I'll do my best to help you. ~ Christina
My swatch works out for the row count but is 1/2” short for the stitch count. I am afraid I do not understand how to make adjustments. I am using the yarn and needle size recommended. I am not sure what I need to do.
I applaud your swatching efforts! Good job! To make adjustments, there are a couple of options to try. 1) You could try knitting a new swatch with a different needle material in the same size. 2) Depending on how crucial length is to this project, you could knit until you've reached the called-for length. 3) You could try an alternate yarn and/or pattern. This last option is more extreme, of course, but sometimes certain fibers and materials just don't play nice with each other. I sincerely hope this helps! Best of luck! ~Christina
Hi!
This is a helpful guide, but I am confused about one thing. You say towards the beginning of this guide that the gauge is the number of stitches and rows required *per inch*, but later you write,
“20 sts/28 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch”
Following the first statement, I would need 80 stitches for width and 112 rows for height, but then you explain that
“This means that gauge is 20 stitches (width) and 28 rows (height) equaling four inches squared in stockinette stitch.”
Am I missing something? Because I just cast on 16 stitches for this blanket I’m knitting, but... that does not come to 4”. Thank you!
I’m glad you found the guide helpful though a little confusing. Sorry about that. The confusion sounds like it’s coming from the “per inch” statement.
Based on the numbers you gave it sounds like you might be trying to knit a blanket that’s 16 inches square?
20 stitches X 4 inches = 80 sts (16” wide)
28 stitches X 4 inches = 112 sts (16” tall)
That formula was just an example, but it’s not a guarantee. As I mentioned in the post, gauge can vary based on needle size, yarn, and how you knit. Be sure to check your ball band for recommendations, too.
I’m not sure where the 16 sts comes in but, you’re right, that would roughly give you 3” square blanket.
If you want to knit a larger blanket, you’ll have to factor in stitches based on the formula. If using a different stitch pattern and/or borders, just remember to swatch first to account for stitch behavior.
I hope this helps! Let me know if you have additional questions.
Hello! If I have a pattern that calls for chunky wool (weight 5) that has a gauge of 2.5 stitches per inch on size 10 needles, but I am using a lighter acrylic yarn that has a gauge of 16 stitches per 4 inches, I need to figure out how to convert. The chunky wool pattern calls for casting on 25 stitches (for 10 inches). Can I cast on 40 stitches of my lighter yard (16 for 4 inches plus 16 for 4 inches plus 8 for 2 inches)? Also, the gauges all seem to be given in stockinette stitch but this hat is garter stitch. Do I have to worry about converting the gauge or since the gauges are standard in stockinette, is it fine to just do the calculation to get to 10 inches of stitches? Thank you! Judy
Hi! Thanks for the comment. So, a couple of things going on here. First, you WILL need to swatch in garter stitch since that's what the pattern swatch called for. Garter stitch is wider and denser (read: yarn hog) than stockinette so you'll need to start there. You could also try going up a needle size with the lighter yarn to see if you can meet gauge without having to convert everything. If that doesn't work, swatching in garter stitch should give you a better feel for how much you'll need to convert. I hope this helps!
Hello,
I am planning on making a blanket using a garter ribbing stitch. I would like the blanket to have a chunkier knit but still be able to see the pattern. Do you have any suggestions for the yarn weight and/or needle size?
Thank you!
Hi there! I've found that rib stitch patterns show up the best, which looks great on blankets. I wouldn't worry about losing the ribs in a chunky blanket, unless you're planning to use a wildly variegated yarn. My only recommendation is to knit with something you're comfortable with. Personally, I'd say go with something in a chunky/bulky (5). This is because I find anything larger too heavy, and the needles too big. It also makes it a little harder to hide yarn tails or hide yarn joins. This is just my experience though. I hope this info helps. Thanks for asking. I appreciate your question. 🙂
Hey! Let me tell you this is super helpful and I wanted to ask your for help- What would you say the yarn size is here? It says on the website that the yarn equals 11x 17 stitches and that equals 4 inches. Thanks. The yarn I would be using is Nako Sport Woll and I would be using it for a hat and a shawl. Thanks again.
I'm happy to hear you found the info helpful. As for your yarn, despite having the word "sport" in its name, Nake Sport Wool would be considered a Bulky (5) yarn. Cheers!
Hello! I have a quistion about a yarn I want to use for a scarf. Its called Nako Masal. Would you mind telling me what yarn weight that yarn is ? Thanks!
Hi Jenny! It looks like this is an aran weight yarn (think worsted weight). You can find more info about this yarn here.
My pattern’s gauge is 4.5 stitches = 1 inch in stockinette stitch with larger needles. The suggested yarn is WORSTED (9 wpi) ; needle sizes are: US 6 and US 8.
The yarn I want to use is Hayfield Baby Blossom CHUNKY with a gauge of 14 stitches and 19 rows = 4 inches. Suggested needle size is US 9 and US 10 1/2.
I have seen an image of this sweater in this yarn. Could you let me know what two circular sized needles I should use to get 4.5 stitches to one inch with the chunky yarn?
Ah, if only it were that simple. Gauge will always vary by the knitter, sometimes a little, sometimes a lot. What I would recommend is knitting a swatch in three needle sizes. I'd begin with the US 8 needles and work for about 2" and measure. If you find that you're not close to gauge, go up to the next size, and repeat. Once you find a needle size that is giving you gauge, work that swatch for 4"- 5" to get a truer measurement. I hope this helps. Let me know how it goes. ~ Christina
Thank you so much for responding!
This is a terrific primer on gauge, but I am still fumbling with a simple hat pattern's vague gauge directions. The single pattern allows for six sizes between child and large adult, and is flexible as to type of yarn, but I don't quite follow the gauge instructions:
"Gauges: 3.5, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5 & 6
Sizes: child - large adult"
That's it. But 3.5 what? 6 what? Can you shed some light? Thank you.
Thank you so much! Yes, that does sound confusing. Could you tell me the name of the hat pattern? I'm happy to take a look.
This was a great article on gauge. When I've made my swatch I can't get both width and height to match no matter what needles I swith to. I've dropped down 3 needle sizes that gives me the right height but thsnk I still have to use a size or two smaller on the pattern to get width to match gauge is this normal?
Hi Barb! Much thanks for your comment. As far as gauge is concerned, it is more important to get stitch gauge than to get row gauge. Height can always be adjusted. Something else to consider...did you wash and block your swatch? Some yarns bloom and that may end up resolving your problem. Dropping down 3 needle sizes sounds pretty drastic and, I'm sure, will compromise the overall drape and flow of your intended garment. As mentioned in my post, tension may be an issue so gauge will vary from knitter to knitter. I've found that if I'm overthinking my knitting, my tension is tighter which throws everything out of whack. Set it down and come back to it later if need be but you're definitely on the right track. Kudos for swatching! I salute you! Best of luck! ~ Christina 🙂
Hi - What I don't understand and what never seems to be explained with gauge directions is how many stitches do you cast on to the needle in the first place and how many rows do you want to knit?
For example, if the directions say "20 sts/40 rows = 10 cm/4 inches in unblocked garter", does that mean you cast on 20 stitches, knit 40 rows and then measure down to see if it measures 4 inches? Or does it mean you cast on a larger number of stitches (e.g. 40 stitches), knit a larger number of rows (e.g. 60 rows), measure 1 inch across the knitting and then count how many stitches exist in the 1-inch measurement (presumably to be 'on gauge' you'd need there to be 20 stitches per inch), and then measure 4 inches down the knitting and count how many rows exist in 4 inches (presumably 40 rows to be 'on gauge').
Thanks,
M
Hi Mary. Great question. I can’t speak to why each designer doesn’t include the amount of stitches needed to swatch. What they do usually include is their gauge measurements, which will allow you to calculate how many stitches you should cast on. Yes, knitting a gauge swatch can be confusing at first but with time and experience it’ll become clear.
When knitting a gauge swatch, you never want to do the bare minimum. In your example of 20 sts X 40 rows = 4” garter stitch, I’d recommend casting on more than the 20 stitches. You don’t have to double your stitches, unless you want to. You just want to be able to have more than the minimum to check for stitch variance, tension changes, and to avoid edge stitches and CO/BO stitches. You want to be able to measure 4 inches squared of whatever your stitch pattern may be without interruption.
The goal is to measure a larger piece, not 1 or 2 inch increments, because sometimes it takes knitters to get into the flow and stitch size and shape can vary. Measuring a larger piece will reduce the chance that your finished garment is too big/small. Make sense?
I hope this explanation helped and thanks for sharing your question. Best of luck!
Hello, thank you for the great article! I am trying to knit something similar to swatch image at the start of the article. Would you happen to know the yarn weight, knitting gauge, knit style, and material used on that swatch? Also I am trying to recreate it using a 100% cotton yarn, would that affect any of the specifications?
Thank you,
K
You're very welcome, Kris. I'm glad you enjoyed it. The swatch image was knit in stockinette stitch with Cascade 220 Worsted Weight yarn. I can't seem to locate my original swatch so I can't provide my gauge info. Yes, recreating it with a different yarn fiber will affect the end result, which is why it is important to swatch. Good luck!
I am still having a hard time getting the gauge. I change my needle size and I still cant' get it. It is very upsetting trying to get it. Could you please try to help me.
Shirley, sorry to hear you're having a hard time. I know it can be frustrating. I'm happy to try to help you, but I need more information. Message me at info@knitfarious.com and let me know what yarn/needles you're working with and what aspects of gauge you're not meeting. Are you experiencing too many/too few stitches? Are you meeting width but not height or vice versa? What problems are you experiencing? Be as detailed as possible and I'll see what I can do.
It calls for a size 10/half needle and red heart yarn soft 4 ply. That’s what I am using. But I keep getting to many stitches, and I go down a needle size and still can’t get it. It says do the gauge by the pattern. I always have a hard time.
Thanks for the info, Shirley.
Ok, so when you're knitting your swatch, how many stitches are you casting on? How big is your swatch before measuring? How are you measuring?
You say it's too big...what measurements are you getting? What are the measurements given for gauge in your pattern?
I know that's a lot of questions but it's all part of the process. Hang in there.
Hi,
Thanks for the direction - although I am reluctant to gauge I completely understand why. My sweater recommends size 7 US but I want to start it and can only find size 8 in my collection of needles so I will test the gauge. My question is the instructions are below but don't understand what she means in the RND.
28 sts and 30 rows = 4" over Honeycomb
chart flat and in the rnd, blocked.
28 sts and 30 rows = 4" over Antler chart
flat and in the rnd, blocked.
26 sts and 28 rows = 4" in K2, P2 Rib flat
and in the rnd, blocked
Hi Liz! You're welcome. The instructions for RND, or Round, means you'll need to knit a swatch in the round as it'll give you different measurements than if you were knitting flat (or back and forth). You can find a tutorial on how to knit a swatch in the round here, in case you need one. I hope this helps!
Thanks for the info. But my question is if the length is 4” but stitches are only 3 1/2 inches (after blocking) what to do? I went to a larger needle & got 4 1/2 rows & 3 1/2 stitches. Not sure here.
Hi Lynne! It sounds like your swatch is too small to begin with. You're not measuring the swatch as a whole, you're measuring an area of knitting. In general, you want to measure an area that doesn't include the cast on, bind off, or edges. It's also recommended that you cast on extra stitches than, say, what the ball band recommends to get 4" so feel free to cast on extra stitches. Yes, it's a little more work but you'll get a truer gauge.
I sincerely applaud your efforts and even going so far as blocking it to check. Kudos to you! I'd try swatching again with more stitches and knitting for at least 5" and then repeating your steps. I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any more questions.
I consistently get stitch per inch but am short row per inch. I have successfully made adjustments for this is certain patterns, not always. I am working on a double knitting pattern with figures in alternating colors. I’m afraid the little elephants will be squashed! How do I adjust for this row difference without changing the stitch per inch!
Hi JoEllen! Double knitting is definitely on my list to tackle this year so unfortunately I can't provide a personal tip or remedy. What I do know about double knitting from my research, is that it requires you to go down several needle sizes to get gauge. As far as gauge goes, speaking generally, I've always heard that it's better to meet stitches per inch vs rows per inch, but I'm not sure what your project is and how ignoring rows per inch might affect your knitted piece. I even consulted a book I have on double knitting and it, too, had little to say about rows per inch. I would say, then, to knit a gauge swatch in pattern, if you're not doing that already, to see how the pattern design plays out. I hope this is some help to you.
Christina,
Thanks for the reply. I have consulted MANY sources and have found the same answer. I have actually gone up a size to get stitch gauge on this project and still don’t meet row. This is a constant in my knitting. One source suggested using needles from different materials in the same size, ie steel vs bamboo. I haven’t found that it helps. I’m doing a swatch and hopefully the little elephants in this pattern won’t be too squashed. I’ll let you know. Again, appreciate the response.
JoEllen
You're welcome. I, too, was surprised by the lack of info I could find to provide you a better answer. And it sounds like you've done your research, too, in trying different needle materials, etc. The only other thing you could try is knitting with two different size needles to meet in the middle. In other words, if you're knitting with size U.S. 4 needles, try knitting with a 4 and a 5. It can't hurt to try. If all else fails, try a different yarn and see if you have different results. Sometimes that could be the issue, too. Best of luck!
Hi Christina, my swatch guage is half a stitch out and half a row out, I'm not so bothered about the rows as I can adjust, but should I switch to a larger needle to get the extra half stitch
Hi Ann. It depends on what you're making. In some cases, you can do some quick math to account for multiple half-stitches. Also, if you haven't yet washed and blocked your swatch, that may solve the problem altogether. I hope this helps!
Thanks for your reply Christina, I'll try blocking because I'm knitting with super chunky yarn on 15mm needles. The next size up is 20mm so this would'n't work
Hello! I love your site and this article is so helpful but I had a question about adjusting gauge. When you bring the needle one size up or down does it increase by a whole stitch or half a stitch? In other words if my yarn is 14 sts/4 inches on size 9 (5.5 mm) needles, and I want to bring it to 15 sts/4 inches, would I use size 8 needles, which are half a mm smaller, or size 7, a full mm smaller?
Hi Tatum! Thank you for your kind words and taking the time to comment.
In response to your question, unfortunately, there's no hard and fast rule about yarn gauge as yarns will vary, your knitting tension varies, etc. As for knitting needles, smaller needles = more stitches, larger needles = fewer stitches. Try the smaller needles when you swatch, measure, then adjust as needed. Don't forget to wash and block. I hope this helps!
For me I have just completed a triangular scarf which calls for a gauge, now my question is I have already done the binding and now how do I start the gauge, like do u cast on again and how does that get done to the finished scarf the stitches are
16 stitches to 4" in garter stitch please dear can you explain the process.
Hi Cynthia! Gauge is always done BEFORE starting a project to determine if your knitting jibes with the designer's measurements. If you've already knit a triangular scarf and its measurements are within the range specified by the designer, then lucky you! If not, then knit a gauge swatch in garter stitch before starting again. I'd suggest casting on 25+ stitches, then knit in garter stitch until your swatch measures about 5 inches to get a true measurement. If you're on target, then proceed to knitting the scarf. Does this make sense? Let me know if you have more questions. ~Christina
Hello Christina
The presenter of the pattern, started off with the three stitches and then it was the increase stitches but there was nothing about the gauge, I started knitting the scarf, so now I have to forget about the swatch gauge altogether, not so happy about what happened , but I will know for the future.
Thanks dear and nice of you to respond, but in case I need your help I shall get back to you, hope that is ok bye Cynthia.
So I have a sweater pattern that lists the gauge required as 20 stitches in 4 inches using size 7 needles and DK weight yarn. Does not state a gauge for rows.
I was not able to that gauge using size 7s but did with size 8s and it looks OK.
So now I am ready to start knitting but...
The pattern uses the size 7 needles for the majority of the sweater but then switches to size 9s for a section with lace. Does that mean I should use size 10s for the lace?
Yes, that's what I would do. Kudos to you for swatching! Best of luck with your sweater!
Hi! I'm knitting a gauge and it calls for 16 1/2 rows of stockinette but I don't understand what it's asking for.
-Thank you!
Hi Ava! Thanks for sharing your question. When it comes to stockinette stitch, you'll need to knit one row, then purl one row. Based on the 1/2 row detail, it sounds like you're knitting flat or back and forth on straight needles. My understanding of the 1/2 row is that, with stockinette, it occurs in pairs (knit one row, purl one row) so, with your pattern, you would finish on a knit row before moving on to the next instructions. I could be wrong, of course, but without more info, this is what I'd assume the designer means. I hope this helps! Good luck!
Hello! Thank you for the helpful info! If I'm knitting a project that calls for 2 different sized needles (like a hat with a tighter brim) and I have to go up 2 sizes with the primary needle to meet the gauge would I also go up the same number in the smaller needle?
Hi Paige! Yes, that's what I would do.
Thanks for stopping by! Best of luck!
Hello
My pattern gauge reads 11 stitches and 32 rows for 10cm x 10cm gauge.
The yarn calls for 7 mm needles, the stitch width works (10cm) however the length (rows) is way to long
Even trying with 6 mm needles the length (rows) is way to long
Could this be a typo? What is the usual ratio to stitch:row or most common
Hi Donna. Good question. I'll definitely try to help you figure out why you think the row length is too long.
First, can you tell me what you're measuring and how you're measuring your row? How many stitches did you cast on? What are the pattern instructions for gauge?
Thanks.
I'm just beginning to learn. My yarn recommends 8mm needle, 11sts, 14 rows for the 4" swatch, but the pattern I'm looking at has 8 mm needle, 10sts, 32 rows. I'm using the yarn the pattern calls for. For my gauge, using 8 mm needle, I get 4" with 11 sts and 20 rows? The discrepancy between yarn and pattern gauge is confusing
Hi Tracy! Yes, that is confusing.
How are you measuring your gauge? What are you counting exactly? It might just be a simple error.
As for row gauge, generally that is less important than stitch gauge. In this case, though, you'd have to do some math to determine how much yarn you'd need to finish your project.
Let me know how you are knitting your gauge swatch (garter stitch, stockinette, in pattern?) and how you are determining your measurements. I'm sure we can figure this out.
Thanks for the speedy reply. I am using a garter stitch, which both pattern and yarn call for. I think I'm counting the rows correctly. It's a basic blanket pattern of making 12x12 squares and then sewing them together.
Ah, garter stitch. That explains it.
So when measuring gauge in garter stitch, each ridge counts as two rows.
In your 1st comment, you said your gauge was >> 4" with 11 sts and 20 rows. Really this means 11sts but 40 rows.
As I mentioned before, stitch gauge is more important than row gauge. Based on your info, you're meeting stitch gauge, but exceeding row gauge. Here's a useful article that might help you to correct that if you so desire. If it's a fairly simple pattern that you could easily stop knitting at your required length, then that's an option too. You're the boss!
Hopefully this helps you get started on your project. Kudos for taking the time to check gauge!
Awesome! Thank you so much for the explanation.
You're very welcome! Good luck with your project!
Hello! I’ve figured out establishing gauge in relationship to yarn and needles. Do you know if there’s a chart for swapping out types of knit stitches, such as seed stitch for garter stitch? It would be great to have a resource to begin playing with changing the look and feel of the knit fabric.
Hi Sarah! Thanks for writing in! I don't believe a chart like that exists. If it does, I have not seen it.
It would certainly be an interesting idea. If you decide to make your own, please let me know. I'd love to see it.
Ok, I've been knitting for around 10-ish years, I've even read books about it, and I never realized some types of stitches count rows differently. Why hasn't anyone ever explained this before? lol
My tactic is to just muddle through and make the best of it. If something makes my head hurt and hours of googling and knitting swatches doesn't solve my confusion, I just go with it and try it out. What seasoned knitter hasn't frogged nearly an entire sweater before, right? 😀
My biggest frustration to date has been a hot water bottle cozy: Simple stockinette with a few basic cables. What could go wrong, right?
The pattern indicated that it was for an 18" hot water bottle. I even bought a larger hot water bottle because the one I had was a little too small for my liking and I figured it would be easier to make a smaller one after I made the pattern once without edits. (I also hadn't knitted anything in over a year because... life.)
The swatch was to be done in stockinette. My first swatch was WAY off; ended up with 5.5"sq, so I went down a needle size and the second one was spot on. Then I started the project.
About 3/4 of the way through, I realized the darned thing was going to be TINY! It barely fit the small hot water bottle. (After washing and blocking.) So I made a second one with the suggested needle size and it barely fit the larger hot water bottle. Neither bottle is 18" long!
I'm baffled. The creator told me that the length of the hot water bottle she listed was accurate and there weren't any typos in the pattern, nor was I misinterpreting anything. I'm so flipping confused. My theory is that she meant the finished cozy would be 18" (due to the fold-over cuff on the one end) and the actual water bottle would need to be about 13-14".
I had a similar issue with a lace wrap I've been working on. I simply could NOT get the gauge right, so I gave up and winged it. I'm still convinced there was a typo on those instructions too. I knitted that swatch at least 4 times (all done in a very complicated lace pattern mind you) using the exact yarn called for and the correct gauge needles, going up and down in needle size and switching from circular to straight and back a few times.
Maybe I'm overthinking it, but I've never been THIS far off with swatches in my life. It's...unsettling.
The lace wrap is coming out very nicely, I ended up adding 3-4 extra pattern repeats (stitches) to make it wider - a lot more work, but easier than trying to figure out why the heck my swatches weren't coming out. Unless they forgot to mention that the yarn was supposed to be doubled-knitted, which would make sense, but the photos of the finished work clearly show (it's a very smooth cotton blend yarn so double strands are very visible, I checked) it's not two strands held together so... Yeah, baffled again.
Do I just have rotten luck with patterns or am I missing something important? I think maybe I've just been gaslighted by a couple of knitting patterns. lol
Hi there! Thanks so much for the comment! I’m happy that you discovered something new about knitting, even after years of practice and “research”. The lesson you mention was certainly a game-changer for me.
I’m sorry to hear you’re having issues with pattern sizing. I can absolutely understand your frustration, especially after following instructions and swatching beforehand. You’ve definitely done more than most to try to figure it out. Personally, though, I don’t understand why some designers suggest knitting a gauge swatch in something other than the stitch pattern. So much can just go wrong, especially with cables, and based on your statements, it seems like it has.
How big were your swatches? Bigger than 5 inches or smaller than 4 inches? The larger the swatch, the truer an estimate you’ll get. Also, once you meet gauge, don’t forget to check gauge as you work to make sure you’re staying on track.
Something else I’d recommend, if you haven’t done so already, is to look on Ravelry to see if anyone else tried to knit the pattern and also had difficulty. Check to see if others have finished the project, shared their experience, or given other knitters a warning.
Finally, if it’s not the pattern and it’s not your needles, it might be the yarn. Even though you are using the suggested yarn, sometimes different batches of the same brand and yarn weight can have variations that affect the size. You may know this already but it’s always worth mentioning.
I wish I had a more definitive answer. I certainly applaud your efforts, not only in swatching but also in contacting the designer with your concerns. I’m sorry they weren’t more help.
I wouldn’t beat yourself up about it though. I’d probably just try another pattern, maybe one that’s been knit before or test knitted. If you’re set on a pattern and still can’t meet gauge, you could always try to adjust the pattern based on your swatch measurements. It’s a little trickier and involves math, but it can be done.
I hope this helps! Sending good luck your way!
Love your site. Excellent tips and help line. I too need advice. Long story short - ALL was Supposed to work out but all factors put together did not play nice. So my question: should i go UP a size to achieve the proper gauge (a sweater) from M to L. I could achieve the right gauge if i went up a needle size but then the yarn becomes too flimsy, light and almost see thru for a sweater - even though it was supposed to be that sz needle - yarn too loosey goosey for me - i prefer the smaller sz 5mm to the 6mm and this is done with circulars. So i do not want to go up a needle sz. as it makes sweater too flimsy. But does going up a whole size in the sweater make everything else a little wonky? Also, is it common to get a different gauge using circular needles (as in this pattern)? THANK YOU.
Thank you so much, Joan! I really appreciate that. Now, let's talk about gauge.
Yes, you can get a different gauge IF knitting a swatch in the round OR if using different types and materials of needles. Every knitter's gauge is different which is why it's important to swatch beforehand to see how you need to adjust. Yarn is a factor, too.
For your sweater pattern, pay particular attention to how it says to swatch: flat or in the round. Then I'd suggest you knit a swatch using the recommended needle size. After a few inches, measure on a flat surface. If you're off, go up or down in needle size and continue to swatch. Measure again. Keep going until you meet gauge. THEN, bind off and wash your swatch per the ball's instructions. Measure again after it's dry. Yarn can bloom and change your gauge, too, so keep this in mind.
If you've done all this and you're still not happy with the drape or appearance of the yarn, you might try another yarn.
Long story short, I know swatching takes a lot of time and effort but taking the time to perform these steps will be worth it in the end with a finished piece that's worth wearing.
Best of luck! ~ Christina
Hello Christina,
Great article!
So I'm working on this stripped afghan and the pattern is calling for Yarn Over Lace. The instructions say to create the gauge "in the pat", so I'm guessing that means my gauging swatch will be in yarn over lace. It says 18 stitches and 17 3/4 rows for the 4x4 using US 8 needle. I have gauge for number of stitches but when I knit 18 rows in the Yarn over lace pattern, it's barely 3 inches long. So my next step would be to do it again but increase to a US 9, but what if I'm out of gauge on the 18 stitches? Am not sure if I'm doing the gauge correctly. Any tips on getting gauge for stitches other than stockinette and garter and how to count rows?
Thank you,
Anisa
Hi Anisa! First of all, kudos on taking the time to knit a gauge swatch! One thing to keep in mind with lace is that it's designed to open up when blocked. Have you blocked your swatch? Gauge, especially lace, will always be based on a final blocked swatch. I'd try that if you haven't done it already. I hope this helps!
Hello Christina , I am a fairly new knitter and I cane across this poncho that I would like to do but not understanding how they are telling me to do a gauge on this. It says 20 sts = 4"/10cm in stockinette stitch . I am so used to patterns telling you how many stitches and rows to do for a gauge . Not sure about this one . If you could help me this would be great thanks so much , Cindy
Hello Christina , I am a fairly new knitter and I have a pattern that calls for a gauge 20 sts = 4"/10cm in stockinette st and I will be using size 6 circular needles . And the yarn is a Rowan Felted Tweed . Normally when I have a pattern it tells me how many sts and rows but this one does not , so I am not sure how many rows to do . Thanks for your help . Cindy
Hi Cindy! Based on the gauge they gave you, I'd cast on 25 - 30 stitches. Knit in stockinette until the swatch is slightly larger than the 4" to give you an allowance to measure without edges. If they do not mention row, that may mean that row gauge is not as important as stitch gauge. I hope this gets you started. Good luck!
When it says 22sts and 28 rows to 10 cm over pattern what does that mean?
Hi Shirley! Good question! When you knit your swatch, wash, and measure, you're striving for 22 sts across and 28 rows over 4 inches/10 cm in the pattern listed. If you achieve gauge, you're good to go! If your measurements are different, you'll need to make some needle size adjustments and try again. I hope this helps! Good luck!
Pattern says 27sts and 42 rows to 19 cm. (4in)over pattern. What does that mean. I am so confused with gauge.
Hey Shirley, why don't you email me the name of the pattern you're working on, where you found it (online website, book name, etc.), and your specific questions/concerns? My email is: info@knitfarious.com
I'll do my best to help you but I need more info. Thanks!
I knitted a swatch in dk yarn on no 7 (4.5mm) needles - 19 stitches and 31 rows. The width is perfect 4” but the length is 5”, so too long. How can I adjust this.?
Thank you
Hi Maggie! There's a couple of things that might get you to row gauge. First, have you washed and blocked your gauge swatch? Some yarns blooms and this minor thing may solve the problem. If that doesn't work, you could try going up a needle size and reworking your swatch. Another option would be to try knitting your swatch with a different needle material as this can sometimes change things a bit. I hope these options help you to get it resolved!
Thank you for this useful article.
Still, is it me or I find to read the instruction for the gauge of this pattern confusing?
GAUGE
3.5 sts is 2”/5 cm & 5.5 rows is 2”/5 cm
over stockinette on 19 US / 15 mm circulars
Thank you 🙂
You're welcome, Arianna! Thanks so much for taking the time to let me know you enjoyed it.
Now, to your question. Yes, it's written a little differently so I can see why you find it confusing. Let me break it down for you.
First, note that it's measured out by 2 inch increments. Your stockinette stitch gauge swatch should measure 3.5 sts (horizontally) X 5.5 rows (vertically) over 2 inches (or 5 cm). I always knit a bigger swatch as I prefer to measure over a larger area since this is gives me a more true gauge. If you increase to 4" increments, it'll give you whole numbers which is also easier to read. For 4", 7 sts (across) X 11 rows (top to bottom).
I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions. ~ Christina
Thank you so much for your swift and detailed answer! It took me hours but in the end I got it (I am a beginner knitter!). So, just to clarify, if the pattern was written in a more traditional way, it would be sth like this, right? : 7 sts/11 rows = 4x4 inches gauge/10x10xm gauge
You're welcome! I'm glad you figured it out on your own. Still, it's always nice to feel like you have "back up".
Yes, 7 sts x 11 rows = 4"/10 cm is correct. Enjoy your knitting!
I am not patient and I am a beginner. I haven't read each and every question and you may have covered this....but...I have lots of yarn I have picked up "along the way." The pattern calls for (100% alpaca, 50 gram hank = approx 109 yards) 3 hanks. Size 16" circular size US 10 1/2. Then it says 15 sts and 24 rnds = 4" . My question is can I use a different yarn for this pattern? I want to use the yarn I have which is Altan Maskin Vaskbar with the following information:
(85% ull, 15% mohair 50 gr = 60 m. Size 7 needle and then a diagram that looks like a swatch with the numbers 10 in the middle of the swatch and 13 below.
If so, do I just make a 4" swatch and count the stitches required to make that swatch and convert all that into the pattern? Yikes. I don't know how I will ever use all this yarn if I have to buy yarn specifically for a pattern.
Hi Angela! I haven't covered this question before, but I am currently working on an update to this post so thank you for asking! It is a great question.
Now, given that you've stated you're not patient, might I suggest finding a pattern that is designed for that particular yarn weight instead? I suggest this simply because, while there are ways to convert a yarn to fit a pattern, they tend to lose something in the translation (too much math, too loose, too sloppy, too heavy, etc.). Trying to reinvent the wheel (or the knitting pattern) may leave you feeling more frustrated and take away from precious knitting time. Believe me, I speak from experience.
If I can help you find an alternative pattern, please let me know. I'll do my best to help.
Thank you for this. I was trying to knit a slouch hat. If you can find a pattern that works with this yarn, awesome. If not? Who knows. This is a great site.
No problem, Angela. I will dig around and see what I can find. I'm sure I can find something. I'll email you the results later.
I have to say, this is a great site. My mother doesn't respond as quickly as Christina does. Way cool.
LOL! Thank you, Angela! I appreciate it.
Hi, I've done 2 swatches, as per the pattern. The 1st one is 22 stitches and 28 rows to 10cm using stocking stitch using 4mm needles. I've had to redo using 5mm which comes out correctly. Stocking stitch is only on the sleeves. The 2nd swatch is 25 stitches and 30.5 rows to 10cm over box pattern- k2 (p1,k7) To end using 4mm needles. Same thing happened so I used 5mm needles but my swatch is 1cm too long. Box pattern is main stitch in body.
My question is ..... do I use 5mm for the sleeves and 4.5mm for the body
Hi Sue! Great questions!
For the sleeves, I would use the same needles which gave you gauge. For the body (box pattern), do you mean too long in width or height? If it's width, do some basic math using the gauge swatch to see how many 1 centimeters you'll accrue and if it'll make a difference in size or not. If it's height, and depending on the pattern, you may have more flexibility on where to end the pattern. Again, calculate how many total 1 cms you'll end up with and see if it'll matter. In short, though, it's best to knit in the needles that give you gauge. I hope this helps. ~ Christina
Hi Christina, Thanks for your reply. I meant to say too long in the width. So I've redone my swatch using 4.50 mm needles, and the measurements are correct in length and width. I then did another swatch using 5.00mm needles, and it is correct in length, but 1 stitch too wide (0.5cm). I didn't understand what you meant about calculating the difference in width. The pattern says to cast on 141 stitches for the back. Thanks Sue
Happy to help, Sue! Sorry if my width explanation wasn't clear. I'm a visual learner so let me see if I can make this clearer. Think of your swatch measurements as multiples pieced together to make your sweater. If you have 1 more stitch per gauge swatch than what's required and it takes 8 swatches (random number) to make the width of that section, what will the total number of those extra stitches amount to? Make sense? I think you said centimeters before and you might have meant stitches. Either way, you'll need to calculate if those extra stitches will amount to a different size altogether or if it'll be forgivable. I talk some about why these numbers are so important here.
Let me know if you have other questions. Good luck! ~Christina
Very helpful article. I've knitted my swatch. Now what? Here are the particulars: sweater pattern calls for size 8; 4 stitches per inch. Yarn gauge is size 8, 5 stitches per inch - and that's how my swatch came out. What adjustment(s) do I make so the sweater comes out correctly? i.e. Drop a sweater size? Switch needle size?
Thank you.
I'm glad you found it helpful, Louisa! Now, let's talk about your swatch.
If your sweater pattern calls for a gauge of 4 stitches per inch, you'll need to keep swatching until you get gauge. Since you have too many stitches per inch, you'll need to make bigger stitches so try going up a needle size and swatch again. Make sure you're also washing and blocking your swatch to see if your yarn blooms or shrinks.
Thanks so much for reaching out. I hope this helps you.