If you’ve looked through any knit stitch dictionary, you’ve learned there are different types of knitting stitches.
At first glance, you'll see knitting instructions, chart symbols, and knitting abbreviations. If you're just learning to knit, it can seem like you’re trying to read a foreign language.
Don’t worry though.
In this Knitter's Guide, I’ll talk about the language of knitting patterns and teach you how to read and interpret them.
I’ll break down the components and structure of knitting patterns. I’ll also discuss some of the symbols most frequently used. Most importantly, I’ll teach you how to read knitting stitch patterns.
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Table of contents
Knitting Stitch Patterns
Once you’ve learned how to knit and purl, you’ll want to learn how to read knitting stitch patterns.
To be clear, though, when I say knitting stitch patterns, I’m talking about the combination of knits, purls, increases, decreases, etc., that create an overall effect on a fabric. These types of stitch patterns are what’s found in a stitch dictionary.
Four examples of basic knitting stitch patterns you’ll find in a stitch dictionary are:
- Garter stitch
- Stockinette stitch (also known as stocking stitch)
- Seed stitch
- Rib stitch
Looking for knitting stitch dictionaries to add to your collection? Here are two of my favorites:
Now, in order to create these stitch patterns, a series of repeats must be performed. This includes both stitch repeats and row repeats. I understand the language may get a little muddy here but stick with me.
Before we get to the specifics, let's start by learning how to read a pattern.
How to Read Knitting Patterns
For the sake of this knitting blog post, I’m speaking of pattern instructions in the context of flat knitting. In other words, knitting back and forth on straight knitting needles.
When it comes to following written instructions, you'd read them the same way you'd read a book. They begin at the left hand side and move from left to right. The knitting stitch pattern works from top to bottom on the page but creates a fabric from the bottom up.
In a knitting stitch pattern, a specific series of stitches occurs and repeats horizontally across a row. The pattern also requires a specific sequence to occur and repeat vertically as well. I'll demonstrate this later on in this post.
Now, the vertical design is more easily seen in knitting charts versus written knitting instructions.
As you learn to knit, most patterns will require a little imagination. With time and practice, you’ll be able to better visualize what a pattern will do.
The combination of the horizontal and vertical sequences are what determines what your knitted fabric will look like and stitch texture.
The stitch pattern can create either smooth or textured knitting stitches. It can make up simple garter stitch like this Arabesque knit cowl. It can create stockinette stitch like these fingerless gloves. The pattern could also create rib knitting, cables, slipped stitches, or other knit fabrics.
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When learning to read knitting stitch patterns, it’s important to understand the use of knitting abbreviations. Let’s talk about this for a minute.
Knitting Abbreviations
When it comes to reading knitting patterns, you’ll quickly learn that not all patterns are written the same way. There’s no standard template that knitting designers use, unfortunately, but one constant is the use of knitting abbreviations.
Abbreviating knitting instructions not only saves space but it also makes the pattern faster and easier to read. Think of it as knitting shorthand.
The image below is a list of the knitting abbreviations related to the stitch patterns we’ll be working with later on in this blog post.
These abbreviations are some of the most commonly used in basic knitting patterns and are just the tip of the iceberg. For a more complete list of knitting abbreviations and terms, be sure to check out our post here.
Now, let's talk a little about some of the knitting symbols you might see in a knitting pattern. Knowing these will definitely help you to read a stitch pattern more efficiently.
Knitting Symbols
There are also a variety of knitting symbols associated with reading a written stitch pattern. These apply to both flat knitting and knitting in the round. For the sake of clarity, we’ll only use flat knitting (to knit back and forth) in the discussion below.
Asterisks (*) and Double Asterisks (* *)
As discussed earlier, knitting stitch patterns usually have a series of repeats in each row. To keep from having to write out the repeated steps each time, single asterisks (*) are used to mark the repeats in the knitting pattern.
Sometimes asterisks are used to show where a repeat begins and ends in a row. They bookend the instructions and sometimes they may look like double asterisks, but they are two singles.
A final way double asterisks may be used is to convey a message the designer wants to share. As the single asterisk might have been already used, the double asterisk may be employed. In this case you will notice no space between the two (double) asterisks.
Don't worry. I'll show you examples in the stitch patterns below.
Brackets [ ]
You’ll also find brackets in knitting pattern instructions. Brackets are used to indicate a group of stitches that require a number of repeats. The number following the brackets will indicate how many times this repeat must be performed.
Here’s one example:
[K2, YO, K2tog] 3 times
Here you will knit two stitches, yarn over once, then knit two stitches together. You’d knit this sequence three times total before moving on to the next step in your knitting pattern.
Here's a handy infographic showing common knitting symbols shown in written knitting instructions.
Parentheses ( )
When it comes to reading parentheses in knitting patterns, you’ll find they are used for different reasons.
In some cases, you may find them used in place of brackets. Other times they may show the need to complete a series of actions in a single stitch or group of stitches. Like in the following example:
(knit, purl, knit in next stitch)
These instructions are asking you to knit one, purl one, knit one all in the same stitch before moving on to the next step. The parentheses separate the instructions from the other instructions in the row. This, of course, is just one example.
Read Your Knitting Pattern
Something else you should know about the use of parentheses and other symbols in knitting is that they may vary by designer and region. This is another reason why I always recommend that you read through your knitting pattern before you begin.
Reading through your knitting pattern before you begin a project will give you a chance to make sure you have all the necessary information and can understand everything. If the knitting designer uses knitting abbreviations, you’ll want to check for a key that explains their symbols, abbreviations, and knitting terms. Most knitting designers know to include this, but not all do.
Knitting Pattern Formats
Next, when learning to read a knitting stitch pattern, you need to know the different style formats:
- The first includes written knitting instructions.
- The second format includes charted knitting instructions.
As you may already know, you can knit back and forth, called flat knitting, or you could knit in the round, which is circular knitting. You can also knit flat on circular needles, so long as you don’t join in the round.
When it comes to written knitting instructions, you can read a knitting pattern the same way for both circular and flat knitting. In other words, you only have to learn to read knitting instructions one way.
When it comes to charted knitting, though, it’s different. And since we have a lot of ground to cover here, I’ll only address flat knitting in this post.
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Written Knitting Instructions
Most knitting patterns will come with written knitting instructions but not all patterns do. You’ll find this helpful as you learn to knit. It’ll also come in handy if you’re trying to learn how to read a knitting chart. Having a written format with a knitting chart will clue you in on what each step represents.
Written knitting instructions explain the details of the pattern and instruct you how to knit each stitch. They give you row-by-row instructions.
The knitting instructions for stitch patterns will show you the individual stitches and rows that make up a single repeat. In case this is getting a little confusing, let me show you some examples.
1X1 Rib Stitch Knitting Pattern
Let’s start with the example of a knit one purl one ribbing, also written as a 1x1 rib knit. This stitch pattern has a 2-stitch repeat and a 1-row repeat. The knitting instructions look like this:
| 1 X 1 Rib Stitch Knitting Pattern |
| Cast On Even number of stitches (sts) OR CO Even # of sts |
| Row 1: *Knit 1, Purl 1 (*K1, P1); Repeat from * across row. |
| ** Repeat this row X times or until you reach desired length. |
The pattern could also be written as purl one, knit one (P1, K1), too.
Notice that I’ve included the abbreviations for the instructions here. You won’t generally see patterns written this way, but I’ve included them here for clarity. Be sure to check out our post on knitting abbreviations and terms for more information.
Also, take note of the single asterisk (*) in this stitch pattern. It tells you where the rib stitch knitting pattern repeat begins. The double asterisk (**) at the end of the pattern, as mentioned earlier, shares information about the stitch pattern. In this case, it tells you that you will repeat this row a certain number of times or until a certain length is reached.
Now, look again at the pattern image and knitting instructions above. Did you notice that it doesn’t ask you to make a slip knot? There’s also no mention of what method of cast on to use.
Generally, these details aren't always included in knitting stitch patterns, especially the slip knot.
If the pattern doesn't indicate what type of cast on to use, just use the first stretchy-cast on you learned. The long tail cast on or the knitted cast on are both good options.
Let’s look at another example.
2X2 Rib Stitch Knitting Pattern
A 2 x 2 rib knit pattern has a 4-stitch repeat – knit 2, purl 2 (K2, P2) – and a 1 row repeat. The knitting instructions would be written like this:
| 2 X 2 Rib Stitch Knitting Pattern |
| Cast On multiple number of 4 stitches (sts) OR CO Mult. of 4 sts |
| Row 1: *Knit 2, Purl 2 or *K2, P2; Repeat from * across row. |
| * Repeat this row for pattern X times or until you reach desired length. |
The pattern could also be written as purl two, knit two (P2, K2), too.
Below you will see another example of the double asterisk (**) in a knitting pattern. Here you see that the double asterisk shows that these written instructions are for flat knitting.
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Pretty straightforward, right? Now let’s take it a step further.
Cast On Stitch Multiples + X
The previous two rib knit patterns are easy to read because they work with an even number of stitches. Sometimes, though, you’ll see knitting stitch patterns written something like this:
Cast on a multiple of 9 stitches + 3.
In order to explain this properly, we need to break this down into two sections - the multiples and the plus (+) number. First, let’s talk about the multiples using the above examples.
Whenever you see a knitting stitch pattern asking you to cast on a multiple of any number of stitches, you’ll do basic multiplication. For the time being, just ignore the additional stitches (+).
Here the example asks you to cast on a multiple of 9 stitches. To do this, you will multiply the number nine (9) by the number of pattern repeats you want to create. Like this:
9 x 3 = 27
9 x 9 = 81
9 x 15 = 135
You get the idea.
Now, once you figure out the basic multiple number, then you can add the additional stitches to the equation. Like this:
9 x 15 = 135 + 3 = 138 total stitches cast on
Now that we’ve explained the math, let me explain the reason why these additional stitches are included in the cast on.
Remember, when it comes to stitch patterns, everything works in pattern repeats. Sometimes, especially in flat knitting, you’ll need to complete the repeat. By this I mean, the additional stitches make the pattern symmetrically balanced.
Now, let’s put this into action with another easy knit and purl stitch pattern.
Basket Rib Stitch Knitting Pattern
Below are the knitting instructions for the Basket Rib Stitch pattern.
| Basket Rib Stitch |
| Cast On Multiple of 4 stitches + 1 |
| Row 1: (RS) K1, *P1, K1; repeat from * to end. |
| Row 2: (WS) K2, *P1, K3; repeat from * to last 3 sts, P1, K2. |
| Row 3: P2, *K1, P3; repeat from * to last 3 sts, K1, P2. |
| Row 4: P1, *K1, P1; repeat from * to end. |
| Row 5: K1, *P3, K1; repeat from * to end. |
| Row 6: P1, *K3, P1; repeat from * to end. |
| Repeat rows 1-6 for pattern. |
You’ll notice this basket rib stitch pattern calls for a multiple of four stitches plus 1. As discussed previously, you'd cast on any multiple of 4 (i.e., 12, 20, 48, etc.), plus 1 additional stitch.
For the swatch sample below, which I knit with cotton, I added a garter stitch border with a slipped stitch edge.
If you’d like to knit this for yourself, this is the formula I used:
Four stitches (4) x seven pattern repeats (7) = 28 stitches
28 + 1 = 29 stitches
29 stitches + 6 garter stitch edge stitches (3 on left, 3 on right) = 35 total stitches.
I then cast on 35 stitches to my knitting needles. As you can see from my math, my pattern repeats 7 times horizontally.
If you like this pattern, you'd probably love this Double Broken Rib pattern.
Right Side, Wrong Knitting
Finally, notice this pattern indicates right side knitting and wrong side knitting. In the basket rib stitch pattern, Row 1 is the right side (RS), and Row 2 is the wrong side (WS). The RS row is the side you “show” and the WS row is the side you “hide”, or front and back respectively.
This basket rib pattern in particular is the same on both sides so it’s less important on this particular pattern. Other patterns though, based on their stitch textures, will have more definite right facing sides.
Also, right sides and wrong sides are not always set up as in the pattern above. You will also find patterns which begin with a wrong side row, so just be aware.
And that’s all there is to reading a basic knitting stitch pattern. Whew! I know that was a lot of information. I hope you found these basic knitting instructions to be helpful or learned something new.
If you have any questions or just want to share your thoughts, please take a minute to drop me a note. I'd love to hear from you!
This was awesome.
Write a book, I need it.
Grateful,
Helga
Thank you so much! Glad you found it useful. Cheers!
I am having trouble with these instructions:
Rep Body Inc’s every other rnd 3 (6, 5, 6, 7, 7) more
times and every 4th rnd 1 (0, 1, 0, 0, 0) time, rep Sleeve
Inc’s every other rnd 3 (4, 3, 4, 5, 3) more times and
every 4th rnd 1 (1, 2, 1, 1, 2) time(s) – 32 (44, 44, 44,
52, 48) sts inc’d, 108 (120, 124, 132, 140, 136) sts.
Is the 4th round counted from the beginning or after the every other rounds are completed?
If it is from the beginning then there is an increase without a knit round in between.
I appreciate your help.
Kathy
Hi Kathy! It sounds like you've got the idea but hopefully this will clarify.
Round 1: Body Increase round 3 (6, 5, 6, 7, 7) times as instructed.
Round 2: No increase
Round 3: Same as 1
Round 4: Body increase round 1 (0, 1, 0, 0, 0) times as instructed.
Without seeing the pattern, I can't tell you if the body and sleeve are worked simultaneously, but you'd follow this same format for the sleeve increases. I hope this helps!
What does this mean? Ending with row 1 of pat 1., row 5 of pat 2. Bind off in pat
Does this mean row 1 is right side and row 5 is the backside? Or I do row 1 then dor normal row 2 on backside. Then do row 5 on right side and normal row 6 on backside?
How do you bond off in pattern?
I'm confused. Im making fisherman afghan. email me please
Thanks for reaching out, Sandy. Sorry for the delayed response. It was the Christmas holidays and I took some time off to spend with my family.
Unfortunately, I can't speak to the pattern's meaning without more information.
As for binding off in pattern, you'll just work the stitches as if you were continuing the pattern. You can find more info on how to do this in my bind off post.
Thank you for this guide! I do have one question I haven't been able to find an answer to, if you have the time please 🙂
Instruction: "knit to last inc marker, remove marker, k3"
Do I also knit the stitch with the inc marker before removing the marker? Or do I stop short and then the marker stitch is knitted in the following 3?
Thank you so much for your time and help.
You're welcome! As for your knitting pattern, it sounds like you should knit up to the marker, remove the marker, then knit 3. Without seeing it, that'd be my best guess. I hope it works out for you! Cheers.
Are the free patterns on this website?
Which free patterns are you looking for?
I'm making a hat CO is 96 stitches
I can't figure this out please help
*(Knit 1, purl 1) three times, k2tog, (purl1, knit1)there times, k2tog, repeat from * to end.
Please how do I do this
Hi Noreen. I like to look at these instructions like solving a math equation. Ha! Never thought I'd hear myself say that. 🙂
First, write out the instructions and count each stitch set to make sure that it's divisible by 96. This is the only way you'll know if there's a mistake from the get go. Here's what I did:
You have 96 stitches.
1. K1, P1 (3x) = 6 stitches
2. K2tog = 2 sts
3. P1, K1 (3x) = 6 sts
4. K2tog = 2 sts
5. Now add these up > 6+2+6+2 = 16 stitches.
6. Now divide 96 by 16 = 6. In other words, you will complete this set of instructions 6 times until the next set of instructions.
It would also help to place stitch markers every 16 stitches BEFORE you start the decrease section. This'll help you keep track of each set and you'll be able to catch any mistakes quickly. I hope this helps! Good luck!
what is. kfb. ?
KFB is an abbreviation for you to knit into front and back of single stitch. It is a type of increase. You can find out more about knitting abbreviations here. I hope this helps! Let me know if you have any other questions. 🙂
how do you increase sts if i increase on the third row then every 8th row do i contue 3-4 or do i start again with row 1 please reply as i want to do a cardigan for my new grandaughter
Hi Annette. It's hard to say without seeing it or knowing more. My recommendation would be to search for a free pattern (or paid) and adjust from there. Yarnspirations is one place to look. They have a lot in the way of kids cardigans, etc. I hope this helps and congrats on the new Granddaughter. 🙂
Your page is wonderful! It cleared up a lot of confusion for me.
I still have one pattern that I don't understand. It feels like there are too many brackets - or not enough! Shouldn't there be an even number?
Isotope Cowl by Cascade Yarns
Rnd 1: *[K3, [P1, K1] twice, P1, repeat from * to end of rnd.
Rnd 2: *[K3, [K1, P1] twice, K1, repeat from * to end of rnd.
Thank you so much. I appreciate the feedback!
In regards to the pattern, yes, I agree. If you open a bracket or parenthesis, there should be one to close it. I recommend you message the designer on Ravelry and see if she can clear up the pattern questions. It seems like a nice pattern to knit. I hope you can get this resolved.
Thank you so much for the quick reply! I feel so much better about my confusion now. I'll see if I can find her on Ravelry or through Cascade.
You are awesome!
You're most welcome. The designer is Shannon Dunbabin. I believe her username is four8s on Ravelry. I hope she responds. 🙂
Can you tell me what it means to work 2 stitches in next stitch then slip next stitch as if to knit . Im trying to make a shawl collar on a sweater. Thanks
Hi Pat! Great question! It sounds like the pattern is asking you to create an increase. In most cases, you can knit front and back (KFB) in the next stitch. Then, you'll slip the next stitch, unworked, as if you were going to knit it, essentially twisting it. More info on slipping stitches here. I'd just double check the pattern to see if they're specific about the type of increase it wants you to use. Here's more info on types of increases, including the KFB.
I hope this helps! Best of luck with your sweater!
What does this mean:
K36(37),ask, turn. (61,62 sets)
Hi Sandra. It sounds like a pattern which has multiple sizes. The numbers and parentheses indicate how many stitches or sets you work for that particular size. I'm not sure if you made a typo or the original pattern did but I'm guessing the "ask" is supposed to be a slip-slip-knit (SSK). The "turn" direction would suggest that it's a short row project. I hope this helps.
I am knitting a Clair cable sweater done by premier yarns. I tried to email them but got no response. Hoping you can help. The pattern is wrong. First they say to cast on 119sts. Then they break the pattern up with elelete and cable, then back to elylet. When I counted stitches to the way they said to work pattern, it's actually 54sts in eyelet at beginning and end.
Then they mention sizes, but row 1 and row 7 doesn't turn out the way its supposed to.
1st Row says:( P1 small, 0 medium, 3 large etc). Then for eyelet it says *P1, yo, p2 tog, P5*. (Then same as brackets above.)
Row 7 says: (P1 small, P0 medium, P3 large) working Eyelet again, *P1, yo, P2 tog, P2*.
It's supposed to create eyelet holes, example: *-----*
*-----*-----*. It doesn't do this. Not sure if I explained it well enough for you to understand what I mean. I hope you can help
Hi Angela. Sorry you're having trouble. With patterns written out like this, I prefer to write everything out (or type) and then I count each row of stitches to make sure I'm going to be on track.
Here's what I did. For the size you're working you should have 119 stitches.
In the set up row it says: P3, Work 48 (eyelet pattern), P3, [k1,p1] 5 times, k1, P3, work 48, P3
3 + 48 + 3 + 10 + 1 + 3 + 48 + 3 = 119
From the eyelet pattern (multiple of 8 stitches) and the 48 stitches you need to work, row 1 says:
P1, YO, P2tog, P5
I count the P1 and P5 first = 6, the YO is a +1, (7) and the P2tog leaves one stitch making it 8.
In Row 7 (eyelet) you have:
P4, Yo, P2tog, P2 (8 stitches)
Again, I count the P4 + P2 first = 6, then YO = +1 (7), and the P2tog leaves 1 = 8
From what I can see in just my quick review, the numbers add up to me. I'd recommend writing everything out and also using a ton of stitch markers to keep track of these sections of 8 for the eyelet pattern so you always know where you are in the pattern and how many stitches you should have. The stitch markers should help you notice if your counts are off or if something else is going on. Also, if you're not getting the eyelets, you might be missing yarn overs as you're working.
It's a cute sweater! I sincerely hope this helps so you can finish this project.
Hi i am trying to figure out what this pattern will look like...
1. K51
2. P51
3. K2.P5.K1.P1.K5.P5.K1.P1.K5.P5.K1.P5.KI.P5.K1.P1.K3.P1.K2
4. P2.K2.P1.K2.P1.K1.P3.K1.P1.K1.P3.K1.P1.K1.P1.K1.P1.K1.P5.K1.P5.K1.P5.K1.P1.K1.P3.K1.P2.
5. K2.P5.K1.P1.K5.P5.K1.P1.K9.P1.K1.P1.K3.P1.K1.P1.K3.P1.K1.P1.K1.P1.K1.P1.K2.
6. P2.K1.P3.K1.P1.K1.P3.K1.P1.K1.P3.K1.P1.K1.P9.K1.P1.K1.P9.K1.P1.K1.P6.
7.K6.P1.K1.P5.K1.P5.K1.P5.K5.P1.K1.P5.K1.P5.K1.P1.K3.P1.K2
8. P51
9. K51
10.P2.K1.P3.K1.P1.K5.P1.K5.P1.K5.P1.K5.P1.K5.P1.K5.P1.K5.P2.
11.K2.P1.K3.P1.K1.P1.K3.P1.K1.P1.K5.P1.K5.P1.K3.P1.K5.P1.K1.P1.K5.P2.K2.P1.K2.
12.P2.K1.P1.K1.P1.K1.P1.K5.P1.K5.P1.K1.P3.K1.P1.K5.P1.K5.P1.K1.P3.K1.P1.K1.P3.K1.P2.
13.K2.P1.K3.P1.K1.P1.K3.P1.K1.P1.K9.P1.K1.P1.K3.P1.K1.P1.K9.P1.K1.P1.K2.P2.K2.
14.P2.K1.P3.K1.P1.K5.P1.K5.P1.K5.P1.K5.P1.K5.P1.K5.P1.K5.P2.
15.K51
16.P51
Sorry, I couldn't tell you unless I were to knit it. If you have the title of the pattern, you might try Googling the name to see if any images pop up. That might help you. Best of luck!
I need help with this: ‘ [kfb] 11 times’
kfb = Increment 1 by knitting into the front and back of the next st.
I believe I need to add a stitch using the kfb description and the knit 11.
Thanks
Hi Julia. Based on the info you shared, it seems like the pattern is asking you to KFB 11 times. Now, without more info, I can't say if the pattern is asking for 11 consecutive increases or something else entirely. I would be suspicious of that many increases back to back without any stitches worked in between, but that's me. If all else fails, please contact the designer for specific instructions. Good luck!
Thank you! I agree that adding 11 points is suspicious. I will try to contact the designer. I like your site very much.
You're most welcome! And thank you for your kind words. I very much appreciate them. 🙂
When a pattern says “twice” after a comma that has K2tog before it does that mean knit 2 together two times in a row?
Yes, Lana, that's exactly what it means. Thanks for the message. Best of luck!
Do you know where I can find detailed instructions for the differences between yf/yb (I know what these two mean because it's as in rib stitch), yo (yarn over) yon (yarn over needle), yrn (yarn round needle)
Hi Verity! Great question! Typically, the pattern instructions are based on regional tendencies (U.S. or UK, etc.), but the intended results are the same. Another difference is based on knitting style, which affects how you accomplish the yarnover. I started out as an English knitter but now knit Portuguese style for hand comfort and easier purling, so I know this to be true. Here's a great video which will answer your questions about the differences between yo/yon/yrn and demonstrates both Continental and English style stitch methods. Thanks for writing in!
Hello! Thank you for taking the time to respond to all of us! My Google foo must be weak, but I can't seem to find the answer to a question on a free pattern (Google brought me to your excellent page though). Celtic Dancer by Drops design. It asks me to cast on 33-33-35 sts. I've never seen a hyphenated multi number cast on, do you know what I should be doing? Thank you!
Hi Erika! Sure, I'm happy to help!
Ok, so I just looked at the Celtic Dancer pattern (lovely!) to better explain. At the top you'll see a category listing for "SIZE". Under this heading, it lists three sets of numbers, like this - US: 5/6½ - 7½/9 - 9½/10½.
These are the three foot sizes to choose to work from for the pattern. Anytime you see a pattern with numbers separated by dashes like this, there will be multiple sizes to choose from, so just FYI.
Once you decide which size you want to work from, it's best to go through the pattern and physically mark (I like to print mine out) which size you're working from. I say this from experience because it's easy to get confused, especially the way these patterns are written out, and end up working the wrong size.
So that's it! I appreciate your comments and taking the time to write in. I sincerely hope this helps you! Best of luck! ~ Christina
Hello I am trying to follow a pattern but it has me completely flummoxed.
Sorry to hear it, Linda. Care to share more details?
Hi can you explain this for me - I am doing 124 sts
Cast on 118 (124 132 140 146 152) sts
Border Row 1 (RS) k1 cb4 p1 k3 (1-42-) pm *k3 cb4 k3 rep from * to last 9 (7 6 10 8 6)sts, pm k3 (1-42-) p1 cf4 k1
It’s the (1-42-) that I don’t understand
Thanks
Hi Sheila! That is confusing. I would definitely reach out to the designer for answers to this question. Good luck!
How does one read a diagram with boxes and colored circles? I have a graph of three boxes and numerous rows. The pattern is in colored circles for knit, Uncolored for purl. I have 120 stitches, however graph shows three rows or as I read it, 3 stitches per row. Directions state to knit vertically. ?? Thank you.
Hi Debra! I'm a visual learner so it's hard for me to tell you exactly but, if you'd like, you can email me the image and I'll see if I can help make sense of it. You can reach me at: info@knitfarious.com
Hi, Christina
I am trying to copy a pattern from an old sweater that my mom knit for my father but am not successful. It seems to be a very simple one, if I send you a good picture would you be able to throw some light? Would be really greatful.
Hi there! Oh, if only it were that simple! What I would recommend is searching Ravelry for knit sweater patterns. You can play around with the selectors on the left and see if you can find something very close to what your mom knit for your father and then adjust from there. That would be the quickest thing to do. I hope this is helpful!
Hi Christina
This is an amazing site and thank you for all your insight. I agree you should have a book to help these problems with deciphering patterns.
I am confused by a pattern that does not give precise instructions .
If the pattern is 45 stitches and the pattern is P1, K1,P1, K1 etc to the end what the following instructions be?
(Patt 2 sts, work 3 tog, patt 3 sts, work 3 tog) 4 times, patt 1 st. 29 sts.
I understand the computation eg the 11 stitches x4 add 1 = 45 stitches etc and the 3 tog =1 stitch to get to the 29 sts
So is patt2,P1K1, work 3 Purl tog, patt 3 sts K1 P1 K1, work 3 Purl tog ,
Repeat 4 times and then Patt 1 st K1
Or is work 3 tog always a code for a knit stitch?
Thanks for your help
Gaye
Hi Gaye! I'm so happy to hear that you found my site helpful. That's what I'm here for.
As for the pattern, that is VERY confusing. The first thing that's wrong is that 45sts won't break down evenly for P1,K1. Secondly, I'm not sure what you mean by "Patt 2 sts work 3 tog..." so I can't provide any insight there. Work 3 together sounds like a Knit 3 together (K3tog). Wow, there's a lot going on here. Is this a pattern you purchased or a free pattern? If you can provide more info I'll try to help but this really is a mystery to me. If it's a mystery to you and me, then there might be a problem with the pattern itself. You can also email me at: info@knitfarious.com if you don't want to share the info through a comment. Thanks.
I recieved your response but I copied an pasted my original post so you can fully understand my problem.
I write out my patterns all the time so I fully understand it.
It says to cast on 119 for large. When I counted out what is supposed to be 48sts for the eyelet pattern, then 11sts form the cable, then the 48 sts, it only works out to 107.
That leaves 12sts unaccounted for.
I counted out the stitches and it actually works out for me to work 54sts in eyelet, 11sts for cable, and 54sts for eyelet.
So the pattern I sent you doesn't work out for the pattern. The stitches for the pattern I sent you, 107 sts is for the medium pattern- 48+11+48=107.
Can you help me figure this out. I have been doing the stitches on paper and no matter how I try it the pattern doesn't work out the way its supposed to.
I am knitting a Clair cable sweater done by premier yarns. I tried to email them but got no response. Hoping you can help. The pattern is wrong. First they say to cast on 119sts.
Then they break the pattern up with elelete and cable, then back to elylet. When I counted stitches to the way
they said to work pattern, it's actually 54sts in eyelet at beginning and end.
Then they mention sizes, but row 1 and row 7 doesn't turn out the way its supposed to.
1st Row says:( P1 small, 0 medium, 3 large etc). Then for eyelet it says *P1, yo, p2 tog, P5*. (Then same as brackets above.)
Row 7 says: (P1 small, P0 medium, P3 large) working Eyelet again, *P1, yo, P2 tog, P2*.
It's supposed to create eyelet holes, example: *-----*
*-----*-----*. It doesn't do this. Not sure if I explained it well enough for you to understand what I mean. I hope you can help.
Based on the instructions, if you're knitting the medium it is a CO of 107. If you're knitting the large, it is a CO of 119. I think you're getting mixed up when you're reading the instructions within the parenthesis and/or only counting the cable stitches and eyelet stitches and not accounting for extras included within the different sizes.
Medium is the first # within the parenthesis, the large is the second.
Let me break down the differences here.
Based on set up row instructions:
Medium: P0, work 48 (eyelet), P0, [k1,p1] 5x, k1, P0, (work 48 eyelet), p0. >>> 0 + 48 + 0 + 10 + 1 + 0 + 48 + 0 = 107
Large: P3, work 48 (eyelet), P3, [k1,p1] 5x, k1, P3, (work 48 eyelet), p3. >>> 3 + 48 + 3 + 10 + 1 + 3 + 48 + 3 = 119
It helps to circle the size on the pattern throughout so your eyes can read it easier. I'm not a fan of patterns written out like this as they make my head spin. Hopefully you can figure it out from here. Best of luck to you!
Hello, I am starting to knit again, so I need some help on my first pattern.
Row 1(RS): increase Row 1: K5, k2, repeat(m1A, k2) until 5 sts remain, k5
I know how to m1A but why not say k7 instead of K5, k2, repeat m1A, k2 until ....
Is the increase within the k2?
I’m confused. I hope I can finish this size 4 sweater while she is still able to wear it.
Thank you for your help.
Hi Michele! Thanks for the question, and welcome back to knitting! 🙂
It sounds like the the "K5" at the beginning and end of row are edge stitches or they're the stitches that balance the pattern. Usually these types of stitches are separated by brackets ([ ]) or asterisks (*) to denote the change. As they're not part of the pattern, per se, the designer didn't write it as K7, etc.
And if I understood your question correctly, the M1A goes between the K2 stitch sets.
I hope this helps. Best of luck with your pattern!
Hi, this was helpful, and I have a question: if my knitting pattern indicate a pattern starting in row 6, does that mean the pattern starts on the wrong side?
Hi Maria! I'm so glad you found the blog helpful.
As for your question, not necessarily. Your right side row could begin on even or odd rows. It really depends on the stitch pattern.
Thank you for your prompt reply 😀
Could you help me understand the second part of these instructions:
"inc 1st at each end of 5th [3rd;5th;3rd] and 0 [0;0;2] foll 4th rows, then on 7 [10;10;9] foll 6 rows, then on 2 [0;0;0] foll 8th rows.
Thanks!!
Hilary
Hi Hilary! That's a bit confusing, especially with no other context. I would suggest you reach out to the designer for clarity. Good luck!
when knitting pattern calls for a turn in first row when you start to repeat pattern do you keep doing turn
It depends, really. I'm not sure if the instructions mean for you to turn your work, which is common, or a turn that's associated with short rows. If you're not sure you can try it for a few rows. You should be able to see if something looks right/wrong and adjust accordingly.
Hi, I’ve cast on 203 stitches then My pattern reads K1, cast off 5 sts,(2sts on needle) *k1, cast off 5sts rep from * to end *
I’ve knitted 1 stitch then cast off 5 stitches but then only have 1 stitch on right hand needle , how do I get 2 stitches on my right hand needle?
Hi Gail! Hmmm. Every time you cast off you'll always be left with one stitch until you add another to cast off, if there is another left. I get the impression the directions mean the last 2 stitches of the 203. There seems to be some info missing here and without more context from the pattern it's hard to say. If it troubles you further, please reach out to the designer or check other Projects on Ravelry to see if others have had the same problem. Best of luck!
Thanks for your advice, I think I’ve sorted it out now as looks like the picture
Gail
Hello! I'm very new to following knitting patterns and am trying desperately to knit a baby cardigan. I've worked out most things so far but am really confused about how to cast off mid-row. For example on row one it says to k1 p1 2 cast off 3 p1 k1 p1. How do I cast off 3 when I've only done 2 stitches? Or do I cast off from the other side and if so how do I go about this? I've experimented in lots of ways but nothing seems to be quite right...
Thanks in advance!
Hi Stephanie! Good question! Let me see if I can explain this clearly. You've worked two stitches. Ignore those. You will begin to cast off from the stitches you have NOT worked. To do this you'd knit two, cast off 1, knit another, cast off another (2), knit another, cast off another (3), then continue as the pattern suggests. Just be sure to keep count as it can get confusing. I hope this helps you!
Placing markers:. Pattern k1 . Place markers between stitches. (K1 P1). 17 times. PM between stitches. K2. Place marker between stitches. (K1 P1 ) 17 times. Place marker between stitches. K1. Markers for center stitches back and front Street now in place. What am I doing here?
Hi Jayne. Based on your pattern details, you are placing stitch markers to separate the sections or panels of the pattern, like for a shawl. Often there are multiple stitch patterns occurring in one pattern and the stitch markers help designate where one ends and another begins. Make sense? I hope this helps.
Good afternoon Christina,
I am a relatively new knitter and I am struggling with the following pattern for a wrap.
I start to cast on 3 stiches then I knit those 3 ones, set up row 2 I understand how to M1L and PM but I don't understand 5sts. does this means I end up my row with sts because I have added 2 and I will need those 5 in set up row 3?
WRAP
Using 4.5mm (US 7) needles and yarn A, cast on 3 sts.
Set-up row 1 (WS): K3.
Set-up row 2 (RS): K1, M1L, PM, K1, PM, M1R, K1. 5 sts.
Set-up row 3: Knit.
Set-up row 4: K1, M1R, K1, M1L, SLM, K1, SLM, M1R, K1,
M1L, K1. 9 sts.
Set-up row 5: Knit.
Hi Marie! You've got it! The number of stitches listed at the end of the row indicates how many you should have after working that row. They're just handy little reminders to check your work before proceeding.
Best of luck on your wrap!
Amazing, thanks for responding so quickly Christina, will get going tonight!!!
Christina, I echo everyone else’s appreciation; thank you. During COVID, I taught myself to knit beloved slippers with 36 stitches casted on. I’m transition from the bottom to the top and have two questions. The transition row says K2, inc 1 st in next st, K2, inc 1 in next st, K11, inc 1 st in next st ..... What does “inc 1 st in next st” mean? Second question for when I decrease next the top/toe area, I will P3 together, but the sizing chart has “decrease method” of D-H or C-H for the sizes I’m making. What does D-H or C-H mean? Blessings, Mary
That's wonderful, Mary! I'm glad you were able to make the best out of a bad situation.
As for the instructions, "inc st in next st" means you'll increase 1 stitch in the next stitch. There are various ways to do this. If the pattern doesn't suggest a method to use, you might try a KFB - where you knit into the front and back of 1 stitch thereby creating another. Here's a link to see how.
In regards to the D-H and C-H, that's not a standard abbreviation so I can't speak to its meaning. I'd check the pattern again to see if there's more info. If not, maybe reach out to the designer for assistance.
I hope this helps! Thank you for writing in and for your kind words. They're much appreciated! ~ Christina
I have a question about my pattern.
It has the usual instructions for ST ST until 6cm.
Then it says"Next row", and the pattern for that row. No repeat or anything following at the end.
Then I have 5th row and instructions, then 7th row and 9th row etc.
What do I do for row 2, 3 and 4, as I'm assuming "next" would be 1st row after the ST ST as well as row 6 and 8 and so on. Haven't been able to figure it out.
Hi Yvonne. That does sound confusing. I would reach out to the pattern designer and ask the same question. You might also check to see if there is a pattern update. That might also clear up the confusion. I hope this helps!
Hi Christina,
Thank you for your answer. I've been getting really frustrated with it. And yesterday, I looked at the pattern online again, as I thought, there HAS to be something missing. And lo and behold, somehow the when I printed it, the set up was moved down by about 3 inches and cut off the instructions explaining what was missing lol. That will teach me moving forward, you better check what you've printed. A lesson learned.
Love your site 🙂
Thank YOU for the lovely words! I'm so glad you were able to figure it out. I hope it's smooth sailing from here on out. Best of luck! ~ Christina
HI Christina, you have been so helpful previously that I was wondering if you could further assist with some pattern mysteries.
I am struggling to understand how on the Left pattern the information between bracket needs to be understood? does this mean that the repeat for those rows are 5 st between the *? if yes what does plus 4sts by 14 row means as you need to knit the full row so what is the reference to 4sts comes from?:
Left pattern (5 st rep plus 4 sts by 14 row repeat)
Row 1 (RS): K4, *P1, K4, rep from * to end.
Row 2: P4, *K1, P4, rep from * to end.
Rows 3 to 12: As rows 1 to 2 five times.
Row 13: As row 1.
Row 14: Knit.
These 14 rows form Left pattern.
thank you so much
Hi Marie! Thanks for reaching out again. Here's what I make of it.
Starting from: "Left pattern (5 st rep plus 4 sts by 14 row repeat)"
I take this to mean that the pattern itself (the design) is a 5 stitch repeat.
The +4 stitches are for balance, symmetry if you will. If you look at the written details, you'll see that each row begins and ends the same way. This also creates the ribbing edges to avoid rolling, etc.
Rows 1-14 are the Left pattern which will be repeated as many times as indicated in the pattern.
I hope this helps you! Best of luck! ~ Christina
Hi when doing this row
p2, yon, k1, yrn, repeat to last 7sts, p2, k5would I still do a yrn before last 7 sts. Thanks
Hi Manda. Without more info it's hard to say. For the most accurate information, I would recommend you reach out to the pattern designer for specific questions about your concerns.
Hi Christina I am trying Knit a sweater for my grandson o nome size 6 needles on the raglan sleppeve it says to decrease 4 sets but Elgin next two rows and I am confused when they say K2Dec2Bknit to last 6 sets Dec2fK2 I have never seen this pattern before is it difficults way.Bertha
Hi Bertha. If you're having problems understanding the pattern instructions, I would reach out to the designer to make sure you have the correct information. You could also check Ravelry for pattern errata and to see if others had similar questions and concerns. I hope this helps!
Hi, I’m knitting a sweater- cast on 220 stitches for chosen size, knit in round in slip stitch knit for 2”, but every tutorial I’ve watched to knit this type of rib has to be divisible by 3, so to come out even wouldn’t I have to cast on 222? Thanks for any help you may have.
Hi there! Good question! Without seeing the pattern and without more information, it's hard to tell. Even though you've watched videos with that particular type of rib, I'd make sure that the designer hasn't added any stitches outside of the pattern or made very slight modifications that would allow for the 220 count. If you've already checked this and believe that the cast on count is incorrect, I'd definitely reach out to the designer. We all make mistakes and perhaps he/she typed it in correctly. I'd also take a look at Ravelry for that particular pattern to see if there's any errata or pattern updates you might not be aware of. I sincerely hope this helps. Thanks for sharing your question! Good luck.
Hi Christina,
Thank you for this post and the very helpful instructions. If you did have a book I think it would be very popular!
I’m desperately stuck and wondering if you can help me read a pattern. It’s a diamond pattern and the body was knit flat and turned out beautifully. However the sleeve is in the round and there are no instructions to modify the read of the pattern - and the pattern has not turned out ok! There is no legend for the sleeve. I’ve worked out I should read the pattern right to left, but do I treat every alternate row as WS/RS? Can/should cable stitches be purl stitches? Are there some automatic adjustments made to the pattern when knit in the round?
Any help would be greatly appreciated - my project has come to a screeching halt and the designer is not responding. 🙁
Thank you!
I'm so glad you found this post helpful and thank you for the kind words! I appreciate them so much!
As to your pattern, I haven't converted a flat cable pattern to in the round but here's a tutorial that might help you. Also, while you wait for the designer to respond, check Ravelry to see if others have worked the same pattern. Search for the pattern, then look under projects. You might find the answers you're looking for.
I hope this helps! Good luck!
Hi Christina, I am new to the knitting community and I was wondering is when you are knitting with straight needles is it simpler to use circular needles or double sided needles? And when using circular needles does the length of the cord change the size of the item I am knitting. like if I were knitting a small hat, shout the length of the cord change the size of the hat?
-Taylor t.
Hi Taylor! Welcome to the knitting community! Personally, I tend to prefer knitting with circular needles for just about everything. I like the fact that they're connected and so I can't ever lose or drop one of them if I set my work down. A lot can go wrong with double pointed needles (DPNs) so they're typically my last choice, but that's just me. Try things out and see what you prefer. And yes, the size of the cord will change depending on the size of the project. For example, knitted hat = short cord (8" average, not including needle length) or poncho = longer cord. It's not so much the length of the cord that determines the size, but the number of stitches cast on + the gauge of the yarn. It's a lot of info, I know, but keep asking great questions and you'll do fine. I hope this helps! ~ Christina
Hi Thank you for the great explanations in this post 🙂
Could you please clarify a knitting pattern for me that I am struggling with
Round 1: K1, p2 (k2,p2) to last st, k1
Work even as established until...
After the first couple of stitches do I just repeart k2,p2 until it is the specified length?
Thanks for your help!
Hi Claire! So glad you found the post helpful!
Yes, after knitting the first 3 stitches outside of the parentheses, then you'll knit the majority of the stitches as k2, p2 (in parenthesis). You should end up with one last stitch on the row, which will be the K1. If there are no other directions, then you'll just repeat this round until specified or desired length.
Thanks for writing in! Happy knitting!
I have an English knitting pattern which starts with the following instructions for the first row on the right side.
Row1 - (RS) P2,k1,P2, (k2, P2,K1, P2) to end
I do not understand what the stitch instruction within the brackets is meant.
I may be getting old but have always had patterns which are better explained.
Hi Linda. Here's what I believe the pattern is asking you to do: work the first 5 stitches, then work the stitches within the parentheses until the end of the row. In other words, repeat the instructions within the parentheses until you reach the end. I hope this helps.
Thank you for making this website. I'm working on a baby blanket and one section is 78+1. Why 78 when it's a pinecone which is a 10 stitch repeat? Why + 1? How does the +1 affect the pattern? I really like the blanket and the pinecone section but the last line seems to be miswritten. So I'm at a standstill.
Thank you.
Hi Chris! Very good question! When a stitch pattern includes a plus symbol followed by a number, +1 in this case, it is because this is the number of stitches required to balance the pattern.
If you still feel it's a mistake, you should:
a) check to see you have the most current version of the pattern (errata);
b) check Ravelry projects for this pattern to see if there is any discussion regarding your concern; and/or
c) contact the designer with your concerns and ask for clarity.
Thanks for stopping by!
Hi,
love your site. I just started knitting again and am making a wrap with circular needles. I'm do not understand what this pattern means. could you explain:
Cast on 91 stitches (sts) (multiple
of 3 sts + 16). Do not join. Working
back and forth across needle in
rows, proceed as follows:
Knit 16 rows (garter st).
Do I start with 91 Stitches? - what does the (multiple of 3 sts + 16) mean? could you explain this to me? I have never seen this before when knitting.
appreciate any assistance you can provide. Thank you
Thank you so much, Rita! Welcome!
Yes, you start with 91 stitches. The designer is telling you that the stitch pattern is made up of a multiple of 3 stitches.
To break it down: 91-16 = 75 (which is 3 x 25).
This info is useful, especially if you needed to increase or decrease the size. If so, you would add or multiply by 3s or subtract/divide by 3s, respectively. Then you would add the 16 stitches to that number. The 16 stitches are what balance the pattern on the left and right side.
Let me know if you have more questions. Luck!
Thank you Christina , so if I’m ok with the size do I just stay with the 91 stitches that I begin with ?
Yes, absolutely! Right, just start knitting. Have fun!
Hi 🙋🏻♀️ - big time newbie knitter here. I am knitting a simple hat which is not turning out simple at all! It was all going fine until with the basic knitting and then I came to these instructions: “decrease on the following rows: 1st row: *K9, K2 tog *work from* to *a total of 6 times = 60 sts”. It repeats dropping the knitting - K8, K7, etc for the next 13 rows.
What does it all mean?
Hi Deborah! Welcome! Happy to explain.
The instructions are now on the part of the crown shaping for your hat.
On the 1st row, this is what you'll do: K9, k2tog (knit 2 together) a total of 6 times. The asterisk * is used like brackets or parentheses, meaning the info between them is separated. If there are instructions after the asterisk, you would work them AFTER you've completed these first instructions.
The = 60 stitches is what you should have after you complete this first row of decreases.
The following rows have fewer stitches listed in the instructions because you have fewer stitches from the decreases you worked.
Continue knitting and decreasing each row/round as instructed in the pattern.
If it helps, write out the instructions for yourself. It will help build that muscle memory and, possibly, help you avoid making a mistake.
Let me know if you have additional questions. I truly hope this clears things up.
~ Christina
Hello! I need some help! What does this mean:
Work 32 rows dec 1 st at each end of next and every foll 4th row.
Hi Lydia. It sounds like you'll work 32 rows. On the next row you'll decrease 2 stitches, one at each end of your work. You'll repeat this every fourth row so it'd look something like this, for example:
Row 1: decrease row
Row 2: as written
Row 3: as written
Row 4: as written
Row 5: decrease row
And so on... I hope this helps!
Hello.
I wonder if you could help me. I'm 12 rows beyond the ribbed band of a hat. The pattern is for a Spiral Beanie.
An example of 1 row is as follows
K1,P1, *K3,P1*,K2* repeat around to last two stitches.
I'm confused by the K2* after the first instruction within *
In places it pattern appears as it should in the photo but in others it's not.
How do I handle instructions such as the example?
Thanks
Hi Lorie! I can see why you're having trouble. That is confusing.
My take on this is to work the K1, P1, then the [K3, P1] is the repeat across until the last 2 stitches, which are to K2.
I tried looking up the pattern but Spiral Beanie is a very popular search, as you can imagine.
Without more info, that's my best guess. Try that. I hope it helps. Also, I'd recommend using lifelines to save you (just in case).
If all else fails, contact the designer. Best of luck!
Thanks for your help. As it turns out the last asterisk should not be there in any row of the pattern.
I've ripped everything back and started over. I'm seeing the spiral as it should be.
Excellent read. Thank you. I am looking for information on how to read a written pattern for a cable knit scarf I am knitting. (not how to read a pattern chart) I can do the stitches and I understand how to make the cables however the instructions I have have a "set up row" for RS and WS then it says to repeat the 10 row sequence 18 times. So do the set up rows count as row 1 and row 2 of the 10 row sequence and I should knit row three after or do you knit the two set up rows then start the 10 row sequence? If I can get past there then I can knit this up. Unfortunately there is no chart to look at..
Hi Nancy! Good question. I would consider the set up row as separate from the 10 row sequence and would not count it as part of that set. Give it a shot! Best of luck!
I am trying to make a triangle shape shawl with fingerling yarn and am confused over the instructions.The instructions show the number of stitches (all knit) with commas for markers. the first row reads: 11,10,9,1,9,10,11. The second row reads: 11,10,10,1,10,10,11. The third row reads 12,10,11,1,11,10,12. Where do I make the increase. (at the beginning of the number or before the comma)?
Christina, I sent this yesterday but my computer seems to have refreshed the page and my question disappeared. It appeared that you were reviewing and would get back to me. In the meantime, I have a 2nd question so I'll list them both.
#1 - row 1 - 14,10,13,1,13,10,14 - row 2 - 15,10,14,1,14,10,15 Do I make the increase for 15 and 14 toward the beginning and end of the row or toward the center? The next row increases as follows 11,10x3,4,1,4,10x3,11. It increase the stitches in the row by a total of 12. Do I spread them out across each 10x3? I thinking I/m tackling something a little beyond my skills!! I'm fairly new at this. It is a multicolor butterfly shawl kit. Pattern says Butterfly - Papillon and has 2 options for the shawl.
Hi Susan! I received both your comments just now as I was away from my desk, but I will respond to both here.
Thank you for sharing the name of the pattern. I've admired this shawl before. It is a lovely pattern. Alas, I do not own the pattern so unfortunately I cannot give you a definitive answer.
With that said, the pattern should indicate where to make the increases. If it does not, please reach out to the designer directly with your concerns. She's your best bet at getting to the bottom of this. You can reach her through Ravelry or through her personal website, which is also listed on Ravelry.
Thank you reaching out to me. I wish you the best of luck with your shawl!
Please tell me how you would execute this instruction:
Work increase row every 10th row 2(2,0,0,0,0,0) times, every 8th row 8(8, 9, 6, 3, 3, 0) times, every 6th row 0(0, 2, 6, 10, 10, 14) times.
Assume that my size is the7th, or last, one.
I know how I would execute it and I've been knitting for 65 years. Now someone is disagreeing with me. Would like your opinion.
Thank you!
Hi Kit! Based on your written instructions in your comment, I'd knit:
- every 6th row (14) times,
- every 8th row (0) times,
- every 10th row (0) times.
I noticed the directions were written in reverse here (10, 8, 6) so I'm not sure if that might have something to do with your disagreement. Just something I noticed.
Regardless, I hope this helps you and that you get it resolved.
Sorry if previously asked and answered, but what is the pattern of the green swatch at the top of the page. It looks very interesting and I would love to work it up. tia
Hi Rachel! Thanks for reminding me about that pattern. I have the swatch but cannot find the pattern, but I know I have it here somewhere. I will keep looking. If I find it, I will let you know.
It's so cool that you explained knitting symbols and abbreviations and what they mean. Last week, my wife said she's interested in learning how to knit. My wife loves arts and crafts, so we're going shopping for knitting supplies next week, and we think your tips will help us out. Thank you for the advice on how to read a stitch pattern when you start knitting.
Hello, what does the pattern mean when it says this;
Patt 25, turn , place rem sets on a holder. Then work each side of neck separately.
Many thanks! 🙂
Hello, what does the pattern mean when it says;
Cast off 7 stitches, patt 25, turn, place rem sts on shoulder. Work each side of neck separately.
Many thanks!!:)
Hi Sam! The cast off 7 is self-explanatory I think. Then you'll work 25 stitches in the established pattern. Then turn your work.
Not sure if there's a typo somewhere but the next step is usually to place the remaining stitches on a holder. Then continue on as described.
Double-check the pattern. I hope this helps!
Hello Christina!
Thank you for replying! Sorry I missed out the part of putting the remaining stitches on a holder. Are the stitches I put on the holder the other stitches that aren’t the 25 I’ve worked in pattern.
You're welcome!
Yes, the stitches you put on the holder are the unworked stitches.
Good luck! Happy knitting!
When you have some stitches in brackets An either side of bracket it has for example knit1then the pattern in brackets then it says kni1 outside the bracket do I do all the stitches at sides An in the bracket on the row or the Ines out of the bracket just do them one time at the beginning an end of a row thank you
Great question, Rene! You will first work the stitches outside the 1st bracket. Next, knit and repeat the instructions within the bracket as many times as instructed. Then, knit the remaining stitches outside the bracket as instructed.
Good luck!
Please, I don’t understand what to do with this instrucción:
Cast on 6sts, k8, W+Tk
Thanks, for your reply
Hmm, something is wrong with the instructions or something is missing. You can't cast on 6 and then knit 8. It's impossible. You might want to check to see if the pattern has an update. If it doesn't, definitely reach out to the designer. Good luck!
Hi Christina,
Thank you so much for this! I’m new to knitting and it’s been a great help!
I’m still slightly confused by my very easy pattern though, part of mine calls for:
k1 *k2, p1, k1, rep from * to last st, k1
So I’m confused as to why it isn't just knit 3 rather than 1, and then 2…? Or am I doing the first knit, then starting my repeating pattern on k2, p1, k1, k2, p1, k1 etc etc until the stitch of the row and ending on that extra single knit?
This is why knitting is witchcraft!!
So nice to hear from you, Gemma, and great question!
Yes, the k1 before the asterisk (*) is outside of the repeat. The repeat is the pattern (design). What's outside of the design (before and/or after) is intended to balance the pattern so its symmetrical on both sides. Make sense?
Witchcraft, indeed! Best of luck!
Can i ask please im knitting hat in broken rib 1 x 1 rib row 2 knit row.
i need to decrease on the rib line.
*patt 3, patt 2tog repeat to end of row.
next decrease row patt 2, patt 2tog repeat to end row
next decrease row patt 1, patt2tog repeat to end.
next decrease row patt 2 tog repeat to end.
knit row inbetween each decrease row to keep pattern.
i can not figure hot to keep pattern on the patt 2tog as i keep loosing the pattern i have tried to k2tog or p2tog
Can you help?
Hi Sam. When it comes to ribbed hats, it would be near impossible to work the decreases without affecting the pattern. It's just going to happen.
Here's a free 1x1 ribbed hat pattern that I found that includes similar instructions.
Check to see if your pattern includes a picture that you might be able to zoom in on. This'll help to compare your work as you go. The pattern above also has lots of pictures so that might help too.
Give it a shot! Good luck!
This was wonderful and very informative to read. I am in need of help with my pattern. The pattern says "k3 then psso over 3 knit sts." I in know how to psso just over 3 knit sts is what confuses me. Is it over the previous 3 sts or new ones? Thank you so much
Thanks so much for your comment, Nicole! I'm glad you enjoyed it.
As for your pattern, it sounds like you'll need to slip a stitch, knit 3, then pass the slipped stitch over the 3 stitches you just worked. At least, that's how it sounds from how you wrote it out.
I hope this helps!
Hi there
I am knitting a baby sweater/jacket - a James C Brett pattern - which I think is British...anyway = the pattern both fronts and back says something like this:
shape raglans:
cast off 2 sts loosely at begining of next 2 rows
New Row - K1, S1,K1, psso, knit to last 3, k2tog, k1
Next Purl
Last 2 rows set raglan shapings
Work 10 rows decreasing 1 st at each end AS before in next and every foll alternate row.
So: that would mean repeat the k1 sl, k1, psso, knit to last3 , k2tog, k1
and the Purl row
for 5 times more = 10 rows?
Hi Allison! Good question. Yes, you would work the decrease row, then the purl row, before repeating the decrease row again until you've met the pattern requirement. It never hurts to count your stitches and check your work after each decrease just to make sure. I hope this helps!
I am knitting a kimono sweater and the instructions say " work Dec row every 8 rows for a total of 14 times." Is it really saying to do a Dec stitch every 8th row? If not, how many rows between the 8 Dec would I do? I'm so confused
Hi Liz! Based on the info you shared in your comment, that's what it sounds like: you'll work the decrease row (as instructed) every 8 rows for a total of 14 times. I'd also check Projects on Ravelry to see if others have already worked this pattern and if they left notes or comments that might help you out. Good luck!
Thank you!
What does cast off 8 14 center stitches mean in a pattern?
Hi Pam! I suggest that you reach out to the designer for assistance with this question.
Hi trying to work this out I have 150 stitches row 1 k2 (k2 p2) 5 times k26 (p2 (k2 p2 )3 times k26 )twice (p2 k2 )5 times k2 could u help please
Hi Sue! Sometimes it helps to break it down into small parts and see if they add up. Like this:
You have 150 stitches.
k2 = 2
(k2 p2) 5 times = (4x5) = 20
k26 = 26
(p2 (k2 p2 )3 times k26 )twice >> The instructions are a bit confusing here but you'd (P2, [k2, p2 3 times], k26) twice = 2 + 12 + 26 = 40 x 2 = 80
(p2 k2 )5 times = (4x5) = 20
k2 = 2
Add it all up >> 2+ 20 + 26+ 80 + 20 + 2 = 150
If you get hung up on a section of instructions that are confusing, subtract what you do know so you can determine how many stitches should be worked in that section. Then, it'll be easier to figure out how they should be worked.
I hope this gets you back on track!
Hi I have a pattern that marks every row (1-6) as the right side. It never mentioned what to do with the wrong side. What on earth do I do?
That sounds like there's an error in your pattern. I'd check to see if you have the most updated version of the pattern. If you do, then I'd reach out to the designer for assistance.
Hi
I have 98 stitches but cannot for the life of me work out this row - I always check it out first and the instructions add up to more stitches that I have or am I interpreting it incorrectly
PATT states
P29 ,K2,P4,K2,P1,yrn,P2,pass yo,P2 (P2,yrn,P2,pyo,P2)5 times P1,K2,P4,K2,P29
I make that 110 stitches -12 more than I have !
Please help
Hi Jane. First, I applaud you on being proactive and trying to figure it out yourself. Bravo! Based on your info and my own calculations, I also came out with 110 stitches. Hmmm.
So, things to consider. First, is it a pattern with multiple sizes? Could you possibly have mis-read which directions you should be working, which might be the culprit for more/less stitches.
Second, could you have missed a row or section of increases that has thrown off your final count?
If the previous options have been ruled out then I'd attribute it to pattern error. In this case, I'd reach out to the designer for clarification. Also, depending on the source of the pattern, check to see if there are any other knitters who made or attempted this pattern to see if they left any community notes or comments.
I sincerely hope this helps! ~Christina
I left it for a while as had brain ache , then re read and got it !
The work in the brackets actually does not have a comma after PYO , so it actually means PYO the P2 - not P2 again
Always get there in the end !
Thanks anyway
I am so happy to find this site! I learned to knit when I was young, but then life got in the way. I've aged considerably and knitting has come back into my life. I have a line from a shawl I am making that I can't figure out.
It reads Cast on 4 sts.
(RS) Row 1. K1fb, k until 3 sts remain, k2tog, k1.
(WS) Row 2 K until 1 st. remains, kfb (These two rows are repeated 25 times)
I don't understand how to knit this as there are only 4 cast on stitches on row one. I would be so grateful if you could help me. Thank you!
Hi again Christina, I wrote to you last night about a row of stitching that I couldn't figure out. I've been trying to figure it out for almost a week. The lines read Cast on 4 sts.
Row 1: Kfb, k until 3 stitches remain, k2tog, k1.
Row 2: knit until 1 st. remains, kfb. I read the first row over and over. It finally dawned on me that I was just reading it wrong. I had to do it one step at a time and not hurry ahead in my mind. So thank you for being here, I will probably do something like this again. I love your site, you have a wealth of information. I have your pages marked ! Thank you!
H Harrison
Harriet, you posed an excellent question and one I'm sure others might benefit from. So, even though you've figured it out, I'll post the answer here anyway.
Yes, the important thing is to take each command a step at a time. In this case, you start with 4 stitches. Let's break the instructions.
The KFB is an increase which adds a stitch to your row. Work the KFB (1 + 1), you'll have 3 stitches. The k2tog will use two and make 1 (2 - 1), which only leaves the final stitch to knit (1). So you'll start with 4 stitches and end with 4 stitches. The second row then adds another stitch at the end with the KFB so you'll have one more than you started with each time. Repeating these two lines will slowly increase the number of your stitches and create the slant for your shawl.
Thank you so much for your kind words. I'm happy you found your answer and some additional ones on my site. Please let me know if you have any other questions. I'll do my best to help.
Best of luck with your shawl! ~ Christina
Do you offer real time knitting help or do you know of anyone that does? I live in a somewhat remote area and I've been teaching myself how to knit with the help of various online resources. I know the basic stitches and have been quite successful knitting simple patterns; I'm now trying to take on something a little more challenging but I'm having a hard time understanding the pattern. ie; Cont even until armholes measure 7 3/4(8-8 1/2-9-10-10 1/2)ins [19.5 (20.5-21.5-23-25.5-26.5) cm], ending with a purl row. I don't know what these numbers are referencing as they don't seem to match any of the different sizes referenced in the pattern.
I'm happy to help if I can, Michele. I've sent you a separate email. ~ Christina
I am making a vest. After the ribbing
1st row (right side) p1 k1 p1 (k2p1,k1 p1) to the end.
Do I just do the sts. In parentheses. Is this a special stitch?
Or just as it reads in parentheses.
I am making a vest I have done the ribbing.
To start the body the first row is as follows:
Right side. P1 k1 p1 (K2, p1, k1, p1) to end.
Do I do the part in Parentheses all the way to the end only.
Hi Rosemarie! There are two steps to this row - the instructions outside the parenthesis, and the ones inside. The parenthesis often serve as a note to repeat something. So, for this row you'd work the outside stitches, then repeat the instructions in the parenthesis until you reach the end.
How do you read this pattern?
1(2,3,-)(-,-,7): *K2 (2,1,-)(-,-,1), LL1; rep from * to end
There are 7 sizes. What do the numbers mean in the first set of () before the colon? For the pattern after the colon what do you do with size 4 (a dash). With size 1? LL1 is an increment.
The next line in the pattern is -(-,-,4)(5,6,-): *K1, LL1, {k2, L1} 3 times; rep from * to end.
What is L1
The cast on is 88 stitches for size 4 and after these two lines, the number of stitches is 120. I've never seen anything this.
Thanks for any help!
Hi Irene. That is a bit confusing. Is it a free pattern? If so, could you send me the link so I can see it for myself? Without more info to go on, it's hard to explain specifics. Once I get that, I'll do my best to help you. If it's a pattern from a book or something you purchased digitally, let me know from where. I may not be able to sort it out (if it's paid), but I'll give it a shot.
~ Christina
The pattern might be a bit clearer this way
The first line refers to the size (1 through 7) and so the next line is only done for sizes (1,2,3 & 7)
1(2,3,-)(-,-,7):
*K2 (2,1,-)(-,-,1), LL1; rep from * to end
The next line indicates that only sizes 4, 5 & 6 will knit the next line in the pattern.
-(-,-,4)(5,6,-):
*K1, LL1, {k2, LL1} 3 times; rep from * to end.
(and I mistyped LL1 to L1)
Hi, I would appreciate if you could tell me what to do with this “ Do not purl the last stitch of previous round.”? do i just move the last stitch over to the needle on the right? thanks in advance.
Hi. Based on the info you shared, it sounds like you're supposed to just slip the stitch, but it's hard to say for certain. Try it. If it doesn't work, you can always go back and fix it. If you're still uncertain, check with the designer for elaboration. Good luck!
Good morning,
Im working on a pattern for the Asymmetrical lace knit shawl. And im stumped on one of the rows of the lace part. There is a double asterisk and i have no idea what it means? And im slightly confused. I just need confirmation if im understanding it right.
Row13-
K4. K2tog.Yo.
*K1.yo.ssk.K3.K2tog.yo.**K4.K2tog.yo.
Rep from*to last 3sts,ending at ** Kfb.K2.
So im assuming do the first two lines completely. And only repeat *-** to the last 3 sts. Is that correct?
Hi Veronique! Thanks for reaching out and providing the name of the pattern. That made it so easy for me to find and see the instructions.
I see that this pattern also includes a knitting chart, which is helpful in checking row by row instructions.
According to the chart, the pattern is a 14 stitch repeat. The asterisks here are to indicate the repeat. However, part of the pattern repeats WITHIN the stitch repeat so this explains why it's written so awkwardly. It could also just be a typo. To break it down, this is what you'll do for Row 13:
K4, K2tog, Yo. (once)
*K1, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, K4, K2tog, yo* (14 stitch repeat) - repeat to last 3 stitches.
End with kfb, k2.
I hope this helps make sense of it. Good luck! It's a beautiful pattern!
Hi Christina,
Just wanted to extend my gratitude for your help on the asymmetrical lace knit shawl. Thanks to your fast reply that i was able to get myself to finish this beautiful project.
This blog is very helpful in so many ways. And i can see myself going back to it in the future. As im actually an adventurous beginner.
Merry Christmas or Happy holidays to you and your family.
Veronique
Veronique, thank you so much for the sweet comment. I truly appreciate it.
So glad you were able to finish your project. Well done!
I look forward to seeing you around. Drop me a note anytime. ~ Christina
Hi Christina how do I knit the following k1, yf2, p1 please?
Hi Estelle! I wish I could tell you how to knit this line but I've never seen "yf2" before. There's an abbreviation for yarn forward (yf) but I don't think this has anything to do with it. Could be a typo. I'd reach out to the designer if you haven't already. Good luck!
Hi Christina,
Could you tell me what 3 M re means? Thank you for your help
Hi Mariella. I've never seen instructions written like that so I haven't a clue. I would definitely each out to the designer for clarification.
Hi Christina,
I am having some trouble understanding the raglan sleeve shaping. The instructions included casting off 5 sts at beginning of 2 rows, which left me with 50 stitches out of original 60. So, that part I am good with. It is the following instructions that I am not sure how to follow:
Dec 1 st at each end of next and 1 foll 4th rows,
then on every foll alt row until 18 sts rem.
Can you translate this for me? Thanks in advance!
Anna, here's my translation:
you will decrease at the beginning and end of the next row (1);
knit as instructed without decreasing for the next 3 rows (2, 3, 4).
On row 5, decrease again.
Then, decrease at the beginning and end on every other row until 18 stitches remain. So, row 6 knit as usual, on rows 7, 9, 11 decrease as instructed, etc. until 18 stitches remain.
I hope this helps you to continue!
Hi
Instructions for FinishingV Neckband: K9 from left sleeve st holder, dec 2 sts evenly across. I understand how to "dec 2 sts evenly across" but are they referring to the 9 knitted sts or?
This is an adult knit v-neck pullover sweater. CAK0429-008079M
Thank you
Hi Christine! No, it sounds like you'll knit the 9 stitches, then begin the decreases. Thanks for including the pattern ID! That was helpful!
Looks cute. I hope it turns out well.
Thank you for your quick response. Can continue to finish the project for my daughter.
Hi, My pattern states patt 2 tog but the first stitch is a knit and the second a purl, which stitch should I use to knit them together.
Hi Pauline! Thank you for sharing your question. You will work the decrease (pattern 2 together) in the order that's presented to you. If the next stitch is a knit, and this is where the decrease begins, you will work both the knit and purl stitch together. Make sense? Good luck!
Thank you so much for your prompt response, I think I was overthinking it 😂
You're welcome, Pauline. I completely understand. I often do that myself. I hope you're able to finish your pattern successfully!
Hi Christina, I’m struggling with some pattern instructions. I have 183 stitches on my needles and the directions for
R1 are as follows: [(p1, ktbl) twice, p7, k1tbl, p1, k1tbl] repeat around, end P1
For R2: k1, [p1tbl, k1, p1tbl, K7, (p1tbl, k1) twice] repeat around
Here is where I’m confused—
Do I work 15 stitches per pattern (do I knit the final purl for every R1; and the initial knit for R2)? If so, I end up with three extra stitches at the end of my row and I don’t know what to do with them. OR, do I knit 14 stitches per pattern, adding the ending purl/initial knit when noted? When I do the math on that, I don’t get a whole number (183/14= 13.7)
I’ve already pulled it out once, and I’d like to get it right, this time.
Any advice would be SO appreciated!
Hi Hilary! Ah, math. I was never a fan until I started knitting. We're still not best friends, but it's definitely growing on me.
I can see why you're having trouble with this. There's a lot going on, but let me try to break it down for you.
First, ignore that last "end P1" stitch. We'll deal with it later.
Next, break down the stitch count within the parentheses and brackets. My count was a total of 14 stitches, which you'll repeat in the round.
If you divide 182 by 14, you get 13 repeats (14 X 13 = 182 - always check your math).
Then, once you've worked these, you should only be left with that 1 last P1 to complete the round.
Make sense? I hope this clears things up for you so you can continue - without ripping it back.
Good luck! ~ Christina
Hello. I have a question. I am knitting a cardigan on straight needles and am knitting the back. what does this mean ‘Dec 1 stitch end of next and following 9 [5:2:2] 4 th rows. Don’t know what the nos in brackets mean. Thanx
Hi Joan! Does your cardigan have multiple sizes listed? These brackets usually refer to the size pattern that you're working to. Using your example, 9 would be the first size instructions, 5 would be the 2nd size, etc..
Hi Christina. Thank you so much for your speedy reply. Much appreciated.
Thank you so much, Christina! I appreciate your help!
Bonjour Christina. J'ai commencé à faire un chandail - les côtes, et je suis bloquée par le début de la suite. Pourriez-vous m'aider s.v.p. Je tricote depuis l'enfance, mais il y a environ 20 ans que je n'ai pas fait de tricot et je constate que les descriptions de modèles sont beaucoup plus difficiles à comprendre. Voici mon problème, je vous recopie le texte, tel qu'il est de peur d'oublier quelque chose ( je sais que l'énumération entre parenthèse se réfère au différentes pointures, mais je ne sais pas ce qu'il faut faire avec...)
Next row (inc) (RS): K4 (4,4,1,2,2,5,2,0), [k10 (9,13,15,13,18,15,14,13), kfb] 8(10,8,8,10,8,10,12,14)times, k14(14,18,17,16,20,21,16,14). 8 (10,8,8,10,12,14)sts inc'd, 114 (128,142,154, 168, 182, 196,210,224)sts.
J'aime apprendre même si je ne suis pas de la dernière jeunesse et je vous serais infiniment reconnaissante si vous pouviez m'aider. Je vous ai écrit sur un autre site, mais je crois que je me suis trompée.
Vous remerciant à l'avance de ce que vous pourrez faire pour moi madame.
Hi Monique! I responded to an earlier comment you left but I also wanted to show you by the example that you used. You wrote:
Next row (inc) (RS): K4 (4,4,1,2,2,5,2,0), [k10 (9,13,15,13,18,15,14,13), kfb] 8(10,8,8,10,8,10,12,14)times, k14(14,18,17,16,20,21,16,14). 8 (10,8,8,10,12,14)sts inc'd, 114 (128,142,154, 168, 182, 196,210,224)sts.
If you're working to the largest size in the sweater, the instructions would read like this: K0, [K13, KFB 14 times, k14. 14 sts inc'd, 224 sts.
I sincerely hope this helps you. If you have additional questions, please let me know. ~ Christina
Hi
I am a newbie, working on my first project - baby cardigan.
I have 104 stitches.
Pattern says. . .
K22, cast off 6 sts, k47. (I understand this bit). Then it says (1st left on needle 48 sts), cast off 6sts, knit to end.
I have asked uncle Google, but no joy on understanding. Baby will be 18 before this gets finished! Lol
Hi Jacqueline, I think your concern is the stitch count is off, correct? Can you provide the name of the pattern and where you found it? Was it a free pattern? If I can get access to it, I'll see if I can make sense of it. If it's a pattern you paid for, please don't share more than the name and the site/source you got it from. Thanks!
Hi there needing help reading a knitting pattern it’s for a pinafore dress for a 9 month got to the part for divide for front and straps it goes like
Next row cast off 13 sts evenly in rib , rib 15 (including st left on needle after cast off)
Slip these sts onto a length of yarn cast off 12 sts in rib
Rib 67 (including sts left after cast off) turn leave remain sts on holder
Hope someone can help thanks
Hi Jackie! Thanks for reaching out. Here's my take on these instructions:
Cast off 13 stitches in pattern (follow the knit or purl of the ribbing), continue ribbing pattern for 15 sts; slip these stitches you just worked onto separate length of yarn; then cast off 12 sts in ribbing pattern; continue knitting in ribbing pattern for 67 sts; leave remaining sts on holder.
I hope this helps! Good luck!
Thanks Christina that’s much easier to follow than the pattern I appreciate your time. Think I’ve got it now 👍
You're welcome, Jackie! Glad I could help.
Hi Christina 👋
Firstly, can I say how useful your page is for me as a novice knitter. I have a question similar to one posted by June earlier, but I do struggle to process written information, so hoping you can break it down even further for me. So… my pattern (multiple size options) asks me to ‘work 4 (4:4:8:4) rows decreasing 1 stitch at each end of next and each following 0(0:0:4:0) row. 23(26:28:27:33) stitches **
Up to this point, my size has 35 stitches and is the largest size.
I’m guessing from the bracketed (33) that I only need to decrease twice - I think, it’s asking me to knit 4 rows, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of row 2 and 4 of the four rows? Or does the double ** mean I should decrease on the first of the four rows, knit as normal on the next 3, then repeat the whole 4 rows over again?
So confused, but determined!
Hi Elizabeth! Thank you for your kind feedback! I appreciate it so much!
Yes, those instructions are bit clunky. Let's see if we can clean it up. For clarity, I will only write out the instructions which pertain to the size you're working on.
You're starting with a stitch count of 35 (per your info).
"Work 4 rows decreasing 1 stitch at each end of next row (33 sts)."
So to answer your question, yes, you will decrease 2 stitches total on the 1st of the 4 rows (knit as normal) and knit as normal on the following 3 rows.
I don't see additional directions so I'm not sure if you're supposed to repeat that but hopefully this gets you back on track.
Personally, I like to rewrite the directions so I'm not confused by all the sizes. I hope this helps you! Stay determined!
~ Christina
Christina, you are a star - thank you so much. That makes much more sense! There are other similar directions that come after these, but I now feel confident enough to tackle them!
You're very welcome, Elizabeth! So glad I could help. I appreciate your feedback and support so much. Thanks for the coffee!
Hello! Thank you so much for making this, it's been so helpful! Unfortunately, I'm still a bit confused on the pattern I'm trying to do :') It's worked with a WS and RS, but there are times when it only gives the pattern for the WS and then just says RS row with no explanation for what to do. Should I just assume that I need to knit the knits and purl the purls? I don't want to stop in the middle of the pattern, but it's literally soooo confusing
As an example, it'll say this and then immediately move on to the next thing
First row is a WS row.
Est, *p6, k3* and repeat from *-* to last 7 sts, p6, est.
Next row is a RS row.
Hi Cassie! I'm so glad you found it helpful.
Now, EVERY pattern SHOULD give instructions for every row. Sometimes, though, if a row is a repeat row it may give the instructions once with some sort of indicator telling you to repeat. Does this pattern not do that? If it doesn't, then that's a problem.
Also, have you checked to see if you're working to the latest version of the pattern? You might search for your pattern on Ravelry to see if others wrote comments or if there's errata you need to know about. I hope this helps.
The pattern reads knit to last 2 std. what do I do with these last 2 sta. It is a starfish flat stitch pattern. This is a rep of R 1.
Row 1 reads k3 YO knit to the last three sets p3. Does that mean I Putl these last 2 std????
Hi Barbara! Sorry you're having problems with the pattern instructions. Without seeing the pattern, it's hard to say. If it was a free pattern, please provide me the exact name, where you found it, and I'll try to access it to help you. If it's a paid pattern, I suggest you reach out to the designer for questions. Thanks!